Tour du Mont Blanc

The Mont Blanc massif is an oasis of snowy mountains, glaciers, aiguilles and valleys which straddles the borders of France, Italy and Switzerland. At its centre is Mont Blanc itself; the highest mountain in Western Europe at 4,808m. Chamonix is a French town which stares up at the summit and has become a paradise for mountaineers, climbers, hikers, trail runners, paragliders, mountain bikers, skiiers and snowboarders.

The Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is a 170km hike which circumnavigates the entire Mont Blanc range. It is one of Europe's most popular long distance trails, and also one of the toughest with 10,000m+ elevation gain. Thru-hikers typically complete the trail in nine to twelve days, spending equal time in each of the three countries. Mountain passes bridge between valleys which differ in culture and scenery, but all are connected by Mont Blanc at the centre. The trail officially starts close to Chamonix and is usually done anti-clockwise.

The first circumnavigation was in 1767 by Horace Benedict de Saussure, nineteen years before Mont Blanc was first summited. In Victorian times, the rich and famous would make the journey on the backs of mules. Nowadays the trail is well established and busier than ever. A big element of its publicity is the UTMB; an annual ultramarathon of the full route. The race starts and ends in Chamonix and is one of the most competitive 100 milers in the world. The course record at the time was held by Kilian Jornet at 19hrs 49mins 30s.

I first heard of the TMB at a dinner party in 2020. A friend named Annie told me about her hike and I naturally had lots of questions. That night she gave me her guidebook, telling me to only return it after I finished the hike too. This seemed ridiculous as I had no plans and we were in the middle of Covid times, but she insisted. When I decided to leave my job in 2022, I felt my first stop should be returning that little book which was still living on my shelf.

Preparation & Planning

The route is divided into eleven stages. I originally chose a nine day itinerary which combined the shorter stages but still looked manageable. There are refugios (alpine hostels) on the route which book out months in advance. I instead chose the cheaper option of campsites which were just off trail and usually quieter. Camping also affords greater flexibility if weather or injury cause a delay as no bookings are required. I saved the routes and campsites to an offline map.

I would be hiking in July/August. This is the busiest time of year but should hopefully bring nice weather. I packed exceptionally light with key items being my trekking poles and my sun hoody with lightweight trousers for sun protection. Trail runners are better than boots given the heat, and raingear is needed year round. I used my MSR Hubba NX tent, a lightweight summer sleep system and cooked on an MSR pocket rocket with a lightweight 650ml pot. The steep trail deserves specific training but with minimal time I counted on my recent undertakings to be enough.

There is a wealth of information online with tips, route details, food stops and water points for each stage. I found it all extremely confusing beforehand so just familiarised myself with one day ahead. This worked great for me, with each coming day being my next puzzle. A flight to Geneva cost €75, and the one hour bus to Chamonix cost €15. It's impossible not to stare up at Mont Blanc from the bus window as you approach.

Day 1 - Les Houches to Les Contamines

Distance: 20.4km. Ascent: 1,015m

Days after my Malin to Mizen cycle, I found myself in Chamonix. Mont Blanc is imposing above the town and paragliders swirl overhead. Wooden chalets look out on a snowy back drop and everyone seemed outdoorsy. I instantly loved it. I bought a small gas canister in town, got the short train to Les Houches, and was at the official start line at 10:30am. After chatting to people who were finishing; I got some photos and set off.

Stairs led up from the town to forest tracks, then grassy slopes and eventually open mountainside. The Tramway du Mont Blanc train crossed the path on its steep route up to a glacier. As I climbed higher, beautiful chalets with hand carved slates looked back up the valley to Chamonix. Summiting my first pass; Col du Tricot at 2,120m, the view behind was traded for a new one in front. From there began the descent into new surroundings.

It was warm and humid, with the descent being tough on my legs. Similar trails to what I'd just climbed and all very steep. Down in the next valley, a river path led to the town of Les Contamines and through to the campsite. I pitched my tent beside a father and son who were giving up already due to leg pains! I was covered in dust from the dry trails so I washed off and headed towards reception, just as it started to rain.

The campsite had a three course communal meal for €15 which beat a rainy walk to town. They sat all solo hikers at the same table which was a great way to meet people. It was here I met Jelle from the Netherlands and Ryan from the USA, who would soon become family. After easily three or four bowls of curry, and multiple slices of cake (they cooked way too much), we had some beers outside. Most people were anxious about tomorrows snow covered pass, I was more concerned with a storm forecasted for tomorrow evening. An early start seemed like a good plan.

Day 2 - Les Contamines to Les Chapieux

Distance: 17.9km. Ascent: 1,347m

I made it my routine to leave before 7:00am, thereby missing the midday heat. The river path brought a nice church, a few waterfalls and some peculiarly balanced rocks that I could hardly believe. Drinking water flows into carved troughs from springs along the trail, negating the need for a filter. These were well placed on the steep climb towards the most spectacular jagged mountains and todays snowy pass; Col du Bonhomme at 2,392m.

As I climbed higher, the temperature dropped a lot. Rain gear went on and a light shower turned into painful hail. Walking on snow was a great novelty for me, but I was glad to be through it early as the storm intensified. The descent was tough on slippy mud and I was lucky to reach the campsite just before a lightning storm. I pitched my tent in the most sheltered spot and had lunch in a cafe watching others arrive, often muddy from slips and falls.

By 6:00pm the clouds cleared and all was calm. Those who arrived latest shared war stories from the lightning, and soon after I found Jelle & Ryan. The restaurant was expensive so we cooked food from the shop and watched the glow of the sunset hit the mountains around us. While brushing my teeth I met Ben; a solo hiker from the UK with a passion for photography and camping on summits. A quick chat turned into two hours where we found we had a strange amount in common. It was clear to me that we would play a part in each others trips from here on.

Day 3 - Les Chapieux to Val Veny

Distance: 23.7km. Ascent: 1,112m

I packed up in the light of sunrise and walked amongst giant boulders out of the village. Guidebooks recommend a bus that skips the first uphill, but whether a purist or not; this isn’t a section to miss. The river path reminded me of the Gap of Dunloe, with frequent bridge crossings and rapids. A dam midway held back the brightest blue water and the sound of cowbells rang through the valley. When I re-joined the road and saw the bus, I felt those on it had missed out.

With the trail a bus load busier, we meandered through an impass of cows and then on up the valley. Small bridges over carved gulleys show where snow melt flowed months before. Big groups were difficult to pass, but I overtook them all early on. A consistent gradient led to rockier landscapes and eventually levelled to a flat plateau atop Col de la Seigne at 2,516m. I noticed that people were now saying Ciao instead of Bonjour, which meant only one thing. Welcome to Italy!

You see lots of runners who get their bags shuttled between refugios to complete the loop in three or four days. I had done the last of the climb with one such group, but on the downhill they were quickly gone. The steep descent had a glacier to the left and a turquoise river coming from it. I saw my first marmot, a huge grasshopper and a few dogs. Near one of the lakes was a bench with solar panels and a USB charger which I was super impressed by! This valley looked uniquely different with an imposing cliff face and a kayak worthy river.

I reached the campsite at midday, having lunch just as the sun got unbearable. With the best camp spot secured, I was able to shower, wash and dry my clothes, chat to a couple of climbers from Galway and have a nap, all before the others arrived. That night I met Dani, an Australian girl who had been hiking with Ben. She had great stories from the 1,200 km Heysen Trail and from working in Tasmania. Along with Jelle & Ryan we all went out for dinner where we bonded over mutual leg pains and Aperol Spritz. It was a clear and starry night which lit up the cliff face. Full of good food and tiramisu we were all sound asleep before long.

Day 4 - Val Veny to Plampincieux

Distance: 25.9km. Ascent: 1,838m

Todays section passes an iconic peak; Mont Chétif at 2,343m. I left early to climb that too, knowing it would make for a long day. The sun rose during a tough climb past aggressive cows, then I turned for the mountain. Instantly steep and soon I was scrambling. An ibex watched me from just off trail as scary sections made me question my decision. I'm happy I stuck it out as the views were out of this world, particularly of Mont Blanc. I clambered to a statue atop a cliff too, and eventually descended.

I was happy to see two others climbing up, both of whom commented on the steepness. Glad to be back on trail, I made my way over a pass and down steep forest paths to Courmayeur; the Italian equivalent of Chamonix. Trail markers subtly guided through the town like secret messages just for me. It was intensely hot so I bought extra sun cream and took time to enjoy the main square and river, partly with Ryan who I ran into by chance.

A forest walk provided shelter while climbing from the town, before emerging at a busy refugio with a stunning view. Walking the next ridge, I looked back at Mont Chétif and the statue perched on it's cliff. I was proud of my climb, but shocked at how it was dwarfed by Mont Blanc. I tried to imagine what it must be like up there, finding myself hypnotised by the snowy peak as people have been for hundreds of years. This was definitely the most spectacular day so far. Trail runners and day hikers shared the section, and I took frequent breaks to look out at the changing view.

I descended into the valley on narrow trails, meeting horse riders as I crossed a river. At the campsite, I pitched beside Ben and found myself collapsed in the shade. Filling up with water, electrolytes and a bag of the teardrop shaped cookies that I usually can't resist while in Italy. When the others arrived we had the nicest pizzas from the campsite restaurant and another fun evening. Some hikers took a rest day here but luckily our group was continuing on with the same schedule.

Day 5 - Plampincieux to La Fouly

Distance: 26.7km. Ascent: 1,521m

Back up the ridge, then onwards for the next pass; Grand Col Ferret at 2,537m. The wide river became a small stream, the previous campsite became a dot in the distance and the lush, green landscape turned karst and rocky. It was beautifully sunny but I felt a chill in the air when I approached the top. I recall thinking the surrounding mountains look different from above than below. Rockier and snowier.

There was a huge cairn with Nepalese prayer flags that marked the Swiss border. The scenery was less dramatic beyond, but had beautiful rivers, crosses and cliffs. Swiss flags seemed to be everywhere, especially in the village. Once at the campsite, I pitched beside my friend Ed and we spent the afternoon under shade until the others arrived.

I had met Ed on my second day when I saw he had a HMG Dyneema rucksack, so I asked which long trail he had done. Turns out he hiked the 4,265km Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) in 2019 to mark his 50th birthday, it took five months and earned him the trail name Lucky for getting no injuries. He was surprised I guessed from a bag, and I got to learn lots about his experience. Ed was also an early bird so although he stayed in different camp spots up to now, I usually met him on trail each day. From here on he stuck with our group to the end.

When the others arrived we pitched all the tents in a circle. I got my first taste of rural Swiss prices after spending €20 on wraps, rice and a tin of chilli in town! The evening was brilliant with all the best people cooking and drinking together. A tall cloud rose from one hill and was illuminated by the most insane sunset, looking like a spewing volcano. In a slightly drunk gymnastics session; Ben was cartwheeling, I did some handstands and Dani did what she calls a flip, but a chiropractor would warn against. A band played music in the distance for a Swiss holiday and we laughed the night away in our little commune we'd built.

Day 6 - La Fouly to Champex

Distance: 17.4km. Ascent: 583m

I hiked with Ben today, following a stream out of town and past a fun zipline. The stream became a river and led through incredibly picturesque, old stone villages. From there we moved up a steep forest trail which wrapped around a mountain, lined with wooden carvings and mushroom fact boards which Ben loved. A final climb led up to Champex, a town centred on the most stunning lake.

We setup our tents under the most intense heat so far, watching helicopters bring supplies to nearby huts. Having arrived ahead of the others we looked around town, had a dip in the lake and took a nap at the campsite; where I got burnt to a crisp under the shade of a tree. The heat was energy zapping so wasn't much happening that evening.

A burger in town would cost €32, plus extra for cheese and extra for chips, so that was out. I found a just add water risotto on sale for €5, which was terrible. Dani got a shock when the makings of a ham & cheese bread roll, along with an avocado, some cereal bars and a croissant came in at €40. I'd recommend bringing some food from Italy for this section.

Day 7 - Champex to La Peuty

Distance: 13.5km. Ascent: 1,176m

Official route variations usually go over higher passes. Awareness of snowfall, trail conditions and weather is important if adding them. Today has the most famous variation; Fenêtre d'Arpette at 2,665m. The normal route is a flat forest trail so with great weather and no snow; everyone was headed up the variant. I walked briefly with Ed and later with Dani & Ben before taking off at my usual fast pace to beat the heat.

Forest trails followed a stream, with wooden boardwalks and loud waterfalls. After an hour, the terrain opened up and became dry & desert like. The long approach was steep under a harsh sun, ending in a scramble up large rocks. Tough but incredibly rewarding, with a glacier greeting you on the other side. This valley change was the most sudden and striking yet.

The initial track down would be difficult if wet, but had chains to hold where needed. I met two German women in their 60's who were scrambling up as if it was nothing. Once it mellowed out I really enjoyed the descent; well made steps relieved my feet and some parts were fun to run. A double bridge over the glaciers river marked the end. I chatted with a nice Swiss hiker by the water who had just begun his TMB hike. He picked an interesting section for his first day!

I was early into camp and spent the afternoon with a girl from the UK who was hiking with her dog. She was the first person I met who packed as light as me, having almost all the same gear. She also had cool stories from other trails and ultra-marathons (always with the dog) as well as trips to the Arctic Circle for her PhD. Two German friends arrived next, followed soon after by the rest of the group.

The evening was spent with lots of stories and drinks from a strangely cheap restaurant. We had dinner there too, and I can highly recommend the hot dogs. And the pancakes. And the beers. A woman walks the campsite collecting money and putting ribbon on tents that paid. The sun was setting when she finally tracked down her last target; Ben.

We were all tired now. Most of us felt a muscle in our thighs we never had before, and knee or ankle straps were a common sight. Ryan, like many others, had given up today and was headed to Lake Annecy before flying home. Ed reckoned that even the PCT had no sections as difficult as this. It's definitely a rewarding trail, but should not be underestimated.

Day 8 - La Peuty to Tré Le Champ

Distance: 13.9km. Ascent: 1,077m

Steep trails led up from the valley towards todays pass; Col de Balme at 2,195m. Gaps in the trees framed views of cliff faces which held onto the colours of sunrise. The top of the pass had the best view of Mont Blanc yet and meant we were back in France. I sat beside hundreds of cows with bells the size of their heads. The noise echoed through the valley and I wondered how much the cows must hate them.

The next section was a stunning ridgeline where I found myself jogging a lot. I noticed lots of cool bugs and had to keep stopping to admire the view. A steep descent goes into a town with a small campsite where I chatted with two nice Belgians. Stopping here turned a nine day plan into a ten day one, but it was really nice and most of the others had decided to stay here too.

Jelle arrived next but after some food he continued on. His new plan was to wild camp on the ridge to ensure he could finish tomorrow before a big storm would hit. I had paid and setup my tent at this point so felt very conflicted, but ultimately chose to stay.

There was fear in the air that evening as the forecast became clear. Crazy rain and lightning would hit tomorrow at lunchtime and was predicted to last two days. I ate in the adjoining refugio that night where most people chose to end their trip early due to it. Thankfully the campers were hardier, but still many were nervous and talked of deferring for a few days. No one wanted to risk being caught on the ridge when it started, and I felt a deep regret for not having continued with Jelle.

All that night I felt confused and saddened at the thought of coming off trail. Finally I made a plan. There are two cable car stations that access the ridge and these would be safe checkpoints. I would go as fast as I can to reach a station, check the weather and only continue if I could make the next safely. If I was fast enough to finish it in one day then I would, making that my ultimate goal. I set my alarm for 5:00am.

Day 9 - Tré Le Champ to Les Houches

Distance: 27.1km. Ascent: 1,891m

I quietly packed up my tent in the darkness. As was my routine, I drank 1.5L of water and filled the same again to carry for the hike. There was no one else awake when I made my way up the mountain with my headtorch. The route follows the top of a cliff with great views of the sunrise and before long I reached the famous ladders.

Nine metal ladders are bolted to the cliffside and make this section possible. People love to make them sound scary but they're not. Most aren't even vertical, but they are definitely a highlight of the whole trail. I moved fast on the ridge, passing lakes, wild campers and a big running group on one of the climbs. I took a break at Lac Blanc, where the clear reflection has made it a popular day hike. A fun downhill jog had me at the first cable car station for 8:00am. Forecasts had pushed the storm to 2:00pm and under beautiful skies I felt so happy.

Soon I caught up with Jelle, which surprised him a lot! We hiked for an hour and had lunch watching paragliders taking off. He told me about his work for the Dutch government and we got some photos for each other with ridiculous views. He stopped for a rest but based on time I chose to push onward, jogging as much as I could. Insane views, two more ladders and a small scramble got me to the second cable car station for 11:00am. No change to the forecast so I knew I would make it.

I made the final climb to the summit of Brevent at 2,525m. Overlooking Chamonix, I watched wing suiters jump off the cliff and stared up at Mont Blanc one last time before I took off running. It had been a long day on tired legs so this final 2,000m descent was brutal. There were some chains to hold onto for steep parts, and sometimes stairs helped, but it was relentless. I passed a huge statue and soon emerged to a bridge which brought me into Les Houches at 1:00pm.

Somehow the town looked different to nine days ago. As if experienced eyes saw familiarity rather than novelty. The pains in my legs were the last remnants of a naivety long gone. I took deep breaths and relived the trip as I saw the finish line. No one was there to see my silent celebrations. No one could hear the internal harmony of relief, pride and elation that took over. I always suspect I can do these things, but somehow I'm still surprised. I sat for some time, enjoying the feeling and considering how there's nowhere I'd rather be. Especially on this day, my 27th birthday. What a way to spend it.

Saying Goodbye

The storm was absolutely insane that night. Torrential rain flooded the town and lightning never seemed to end. Jelle had finished just in time and Ed took a cable car down. Ben & Dani had to camp on the ridge which pushed their tents to the limit. I spent my birthday drinking with climbers, looking up at the ridge and watching videos the guys sent of their tents near breaking point.

The following morning brought an amazing sunrise and a gap in the storm that allowed Ed, Ben & Dani to all finish. We took time to get to know Chamonix with lots of shopping, good food and ice cream. After emotional goodbyes I was the last one left, filling my time with swimming, rafting and the mountain luge. When I finally said goodbye to Chamonix I knew it wouldn't be for long, with firm plans to return next year.

Afterthoughts

I can't imagine a better way to experience the Alps than to hike the TMB. Every day was so uniquely stunning and all difficulty was rewarded tenfold. Poles are a necessity, as well as training on steep hills and packing light. The first to pick up injuries are those with a 75L+ bag that's weighed down with unnecessary kit. I hiked with less than 7kg in a 33L bag and it allowed me to avoid injury, even with running on some sections.

I believe flexibility is key. Refugio bookings can be limiting when weather or pains threaten delay. People will opt for bag shuttle services, buses or cable cars to ease the days rather than miss a booking. For anyone like me who insists on walking every step, then camping is a good solution. It means carrying more weight and adds distance each day but it's cheaper, quieter, more flexible and is where you'll meet the truly adventurous people.

When the refugios are fully booked, the trail seems to find an equilibrium of people. As such, I don't believe the numbers are ever out of control. Large groups can be slow on climbs but even at the busiest time of year it wasn't a big issue. There is some discussion about which direction to hike, especially in busy periods. I have zero doubt that the traditional anti-clockwise is better. The ladders and Brevent are an amazing finish and it allows you to bond with others rather than just seeing them once in passing.

Water is usually plentiful but most people needed to filter from a river at some point. I instead made use of the water at every campsite, drinking 1.5L in the morning, refilling 1.5L that I'd drink on the hike, and having another 1.5L that evening. I never used my filter and one bottle worked fine. Food is everywhere too, I'd just carry one small backup dinner, plus extra when heading into Switzerland depending on your budget.

Some people choose eleven days so the hike will be one stage a day. Some add further rest days in the middle. I think nine or ten days is the sweet spot and ensures you'll find others on the same timeline as you. In my opinion; any thru-hiker who claims to do a seven or eight day TMB has likely taken a bus or cable car for the difficult sections. Six days or less is reserved for runners with shuttled bags, which is a different trip but does look very fun. Maybe someday.

I've always loved the Alps and now Chamonix is like home. It felt significant to stare up at Mont Blanc in awe as so many have over the years. I decided the journeys logical end would be to see this entire route from the point that ties it all together. I would be back as soon as I was ready to make a summit attempt on Mont Blanc.

I'm incredibly grateful for the friends I made on trail. Every experience felt that bit sweeter because it was shared. So in closing, and in the words of Elina Osborne; it is the people.

What's Next

My next stop was Milan where I met up with Katie O'Neill. We had a jam packed two weeks travelling around Munich, Stuttgart, Zurich, Lake Lucerne, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Brussels, Bruges & Ghent. Incredible food and enough things seen to deserve its own post. Highlights for me were Mount Pilatus, Neuschwanstein, Legoland, Belgian waffles & the Lindt Museum which almost killed me.

Home in Ireland, I met up with Seán Ennis & we packed for highs of 30°C and lows of -20°C. Only four days later we were in Tanzania. Greeted by all the sights and sounds I remember from my time in Uganda. We stood in Moshi town staring up at the next adventure; Mount Kilimanjaro.

Trip Video

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What I Carried

Lighterpack Gearlist: https://lighterpack.com/r/e9j1rf