The Kerry Way is the longest and most diverse of Ireland's 42 national waymarked trails. The 214km loop starts and ends in Killarney, following the mountains and coastline of the Iveagh Peninsula. Variations often shorten the route closer to 200km, particularly with the optional out and back to Cahersiveen. It can be completed in stages, or thru-hiked in 8-10 days, both of which are popular with tourists from all over the world. There are hotels, hostels, B&B's and campsites all along the route, which get a huge influx of hikers every summer.
The hike is not to be mistaken for the Ring of Kerry; which is Ireland's most famous cycle route along the main N70 road, attracting up to 8,000 racers every July. Instead the Kerry Way follows high mountain passes and secluded valleys, only seeing the main road in passing or while resupplying in towns (see the map below). There is an ultramarathon of the entire route every September, with the current record held by John Keogh at 22hrs 25mins 44s!
Preperation & Planning
Summer would be the ideal time for this hike; when the ground is dry, the days are long and the views are unobstructed. I settled for a week in March, where I planned to hike it in 6 days to fit between trips I'd booked to Germany and Spain. The forecast was appalling with flooding all over the country and more rain due. I underestimated just how rough it was going to be, but against the advice of others, I knew I would still find enjoyment in it (and I did).
With the route being a loop and my plan to wild camp, there wasn't much left to plan. I downloaded offline maps and broke the hike into six equal days, noting the rough area I'd camp and what towns I'd be resupplying in. I packed all my usual gear along with the first days food and extra bags for waterproofing. I charged my batteries and nervously watched the weather forecast get worse.
Day 1 - Killarney to Bridia Valley
Distance: 30.7km. Ascent: 943m
I parked outside the INEC in Killarney on a deceptively calm morning. Light showers required a raincoat, but it was almost warm as I walked along the lake edge, past humpback bridges, islands and through the grounds of Muckross House. Passing under the main road, I made my way past Torc Waterfall, through dense forests of rhododendron, and up to the walking trail known as the old Kenmare road, which passes the base of Mangerton mountain and some stunning old trees.
There were boardwalks, bridges and hilly paths for 10km, passing waterfalls and flooded rivers on an exceptionally wet landscape. After a tough climb through heather fields I got to an obviously signposted junction where I was to turn right, heading out along the peninsula. I'd hopefully return from the left side in just under a week, and this felt like a milestone. Once I passed under the main road yet again, I was greeted by the Black Valley and its lakes stretching as far as I could see. I hadn't met any hikers out here yet, and I'd soon realise that these lakes were the reason why.
The Black Valley was very flooded, leaving long sections submerged with no way around. For the first few I walked barefoot to keep my shoes dry, hoping each to be the last one. The water was usually clear so I could see where to walk, but it was slow going, especially drying my feet after each. When it became clear this wasn't ending anytime soon I gave up on that plan and just walked through. Each was worse than the last, going well above my knees on at least five of the sections. At first the cold water was nice on my legs, but it got old fast.
Generally the flooded trails were straight, letting me stay on track by keeping the end in sight. With one notable exception! While guessing my way around an awkward series of bends, I had only the top of a gate and some fence posts that poked above the water as my guide. I walked on tip-toes in a failed attempt to spare my pulled up shorts and bag from getting wet. I went as carefully as I could, but not careful enough. I fell off the trail into what I presume was a submerged ditch. I got soaked up to my neck and had to swim out, towards a group of goats who seemed to be laughing at me.
I sat and tried to dry myself, my phone and any gear that wasn't double wrapped in bags. I worried about what was ahead, but knew I wasn't turning around now. After a few minutes of feeling sorry for myself, and sending some funny updates to my family, I got up and started moving again. Trudged straight through any flooded sections with my new immunity to water, and eventually reached Lord Brandon's Cottage, which was the start of some long awaited road sections.
I sped up, warmed up and cheered up as I past the Owenreagh and Gearhameen rivers. Through farm trails with lots of gates, lots of sheep and huge standing stones. The daylight was fading and all I wanted was to set up camp. At the end of the Black Valley is a very steep hill that bridges into the Bridia Valley. Finding a spot for my tent that wasn't flooded seemed impossible, but I made the best of a lucky area on top of that hill.
I watched the sun set in the distance as I cooked and ate my dinner. I had collapsed into bed by 8:00pm, just as a thick fog rolled in. The wind howled through the night but my tent held up fine. My inflatable ground mat less so, having burst its baffles during the night, but tying a t-shirt around it made it work, albeit uncomfortably. That had been a long day!
Day 2 - Bridia Valley to Mountain Stage
Distance: 43.4km. Ascent: 1,500m
The fog was still thick the next morning. I put on the same wet clothes and descended past scattered sheep horns, onto a road which got my hopes up with a closed café. Impressive climbs gave respite from the wettest sections, and brought stunning views along foggy ridges. For a time I walked the banks of the Upper Caragh river, then forest steps and quiet country roads, past friendly dogs and massive sheep. A final steep climb revealed the coast, and the descent brought me to my first town; Glenbeigh.
I kept my lunch and resupply quick, setting off again into what was now a beautifully clear day. Beside Rossbeigh beach; I entered forest tracks and climbed a hill which seemed to mark a new phase of dry, gravel trails. The long climb passed fairy villages, then descended to cross the main road for the bigger climb up Mountain Stage. This was easily the highlight of the day. Especially with the now entirely clear skies and the sun shining. In this moment I was finally certain I had made the right decision to hike this week.
There were signs saying the trail was closed ahead, but with no alternative marked I just walked on. It turned out there was a muddy machinery access road crossing the track, which only meant 10 meters of mud for me, but they closed 10km+ of trail because of it. I was glad I walked through. As I rounded my first turn on the peninsula's end I could see Cahersiveen and onwards to Valentia Island & Portrmagee. It was hard to believe I was in Killarney just yesterday.
As the sun began to set, my watch alerted that I had hit 42.2km. A marathon felt like enough for one day so I found a dry spot with a view not long after, cooked a nice dinner and stared up at the stars. This whole area is in Kerry's dark sky reserve, and with no clouds the stars were hypnotising. I settled in for another night of well earned, exhausted sleep. My legs were sore from the rocky paths of this evening, but I was happy with progress so far.
Day 3 - Mountain Stage to Loher
Distance: 34.6km. Ascent: 1,207m
The rains have arrived! There was no avoiding getting drenched as I took down my tent, but once I got moving I did warm up. The trails were nice at first, even though all views had disappeared. Only the hardiest of donkeys were out with me, and after some especially boggy sections I was overjoyed whenever I got to walk on country roads. The lakes on the way to Waterville were all flooded. Boardwalks spared me the worst of it, but it was slow going. For the last hour into town the storm intensified and wind blew me backwards. The town was desolate when I arrived at 3:00pm, with only Charlie Chaplin and the other statues joining me in braving the battering of wind and rain.
I hid in the shop as long as I could, eating a salad bowl which I'd been craving, and attempting to dry off. It was hard to face the storm again but I knew I had to. I was instantly soaked to the bone once outside and the wind was freezing. I walked at a fast pace in an attempt to get warm, but that only hurt my feet. The black clouds made it so dark that I needed my head torch as I left the town. I walked down a side road to the townland of Loher from which there's a trail into my next hills. As I looked at how wet and windy they were I was getting concerned for where I would be able to sleep. Just as I reached the turn for my trail, a passing van stopped to ask if I was alright.
Paul was a local carpenter and inventor, who offered that I could camp in his garden. When he saw how wet the grass was he upgraded that offer to his spare room, which meant a shower and the ability to dry all my gear. As it happens he lets Kerry Way hikers camp in his garden all through the summer, but he was surprised to see someone hiking now. We drove to Loher Ringfort where he told me about the significance of the area, then safe from the storm we chatted all night over dinner, dessert, biscuits and drinks. My mind was full of new ideas after hearing about his unique life, and it was a more comfortable and wholesome night than I could ever have anticipated.
Day 4 - Loher to Sneem
Distance: 32.1km. Ascent: 973m
The next morning I got up early and packed my now dry gear. Paul was up already and making porridge for the two of us. He said his mind had been racing with ideas after our chat and he had more questions about some of my own adventures and plans. After a final cup of tea, he insisted on driving me back to where he picked me up, and from there I said a thank you which could never fully convey my true gratitude. Onto the wet hills I went, braving the cold but feeling far better about it now.
For whatever reason this day was incredibly slippy. My old trail runners didn't help, but I found myself almost getting hurt from slips and falls quite often, and only today for whatever reason. Coming over the first hill revealed a cloudy Derrynane Beach, then trails through muddy farmland brought me to Caherdaniel. Hilly tracks had lots to see like a solar system built to scale, a wishing seat where I wished for the rain to stop, and sculptures of men made of pots. As I slid my way down hills with zero traction, I looked forward to any change in trail which may bring grip, and eventually reached the town of Sneem.
I felt bad for soaking the floor of the local shop, but bought so much food that I feel it compensated. Out of the town I walked through an impass of cows, then onto nicer trails around Parknasilla Resort where I met my first hikers! An elderly couple from Dublin were staying nearby and had walked the trails to Sneem and back despite the rain. I walked with them for around 20mins before they reached their car and I continued onward, searching for anywhere dry enough to put a tent.
What I settled for was far from ideal, but I correctly guessed that no one would use the trail in the night. It was the only "dry" piece of grass I'd seen in hours and by now I was desperate. There were a lot of dogs in nearby houses who's howls through the night had me nervous, but luckily no issue. My dry gear didn't stay that way for long as water seeped in, and my ground mat was still getting worse by the hour, but I was just happy to be out of the rain.
Day 5 - Sneem to Kenmare
Distance: 26.9km. Ascent: 473m
More rain and the muddiest trails yet. Ankle deep muck filled my socks and felt horrible enough that I washed my feet in a roadside puddle at one point before continuing. The climbs over rolling hills were dryer, but some paths felt like a navy seal style mud challenge. Eventually the trail crossed the main road towards the coast, and from here it was dry gravel with hard roots all the way to Kenmare. There were even some great views out to the sea and a nice spot where I stopped for lunch, though still in the rain.
The track seemed to go on forever, and I had some scares with two Rottweiler's who really should have been on leads, but I appreciated the dry terrain. On the approach to Kenmare I passed a swollen Blackwater River and a beautiful church, then had a lacklustre final 5km on road due to an actually closed section, bringing me to the warm shelter of Centra, and all the food I could eat!
The storm was scary today. For the past two hours there was constant lightning and I saw trees knocked from the wind. I took my time inside and caught up with friends and family. The forecast was bad so I knew it would be another night of strong wind, struggling to find a spot to camp, and then another uncomfortable night on a broken ground mat. So instead I treated myself to an €80 B&B in Kenmare where I washed and dried all my gear fully, packed it away tightly in new bags so it stayed dry and had the cosiest evening so far. No regrets at all.
Day 6 - Kenmare to Killarney
Distance: 24.8km. Ascent: 824m
The final day brought a sunny calm after the storm. The road out of Kenmare is ridiculously long and steep. I recognised sections of it from racing Quest Kenmare last year, and can see why they chose it. I was well rested but deeply tired, which meant it was slow going. After two hours I finally reached the top of the hill and felt proud looking down at the town and the sea below. From here it was the familiar looking heather fields, lakes, bridges, boardwalks, views and trees of the old Kenmare road, which brought me to an even more familiar junction. This time it definitely felt significant, looking down at the lakes of the Black Valley which made this feel almost impossible six days ago.
No more uncertainty about flooding, or slippiness, or closed trails. The last 15km admittedly felt longer than before, particularly as some rain showers rolled in, but it was no less beautiful. I ate so much food as I walked, admiring the trees and descending to Torc Waterfall for another photo. Six days since the last one, but to me a lifetime had passed. The final walk along the lake edge was easy and just for me, bringing me back to my car and closing yet another adventure.
Afterthoughts
I knew exactly what I wanted to do after this hike. I drove straight to Tralee and to the Aqua Dome, where I spent hours in the pool, waterslides, jacuzzi and sauna. I was genuinely proud of what I had done. The rough beginnings could have deterred anyone, but all the suffering was rewarded. I laughed at the memory of sitting on the road, washing my feet and socks in a puddle, just to put them back on again. As I fell asleep on the heated beds of a spa, it seemed like a different world.
The Kerry Way is amazing. The route is varied and flows well, with noticeably less farmland and gates than something like The Wicklow Way. Even in bad weather the views were stunning, and when the clouds cleared it made it all worth it, particularly at night in the dark sky reserve. I like that it's a loop too. Most of the national waymarked trails are linear but this really simplifies logistics. It's probably the busiest trail in the country during the summer and I can fully understand why.
I think six days was a perfect timeframe for me. Maybe five days if the weather and trail conditions were better, but not with the shorter days of March. It's a very easy hike to recommend, either in sections or as a full thru-hike.
My gear served me well apart from my Neo Air X-Lite groundmat. My original one lasted 10yrs with no problems, so I was regretting my "upgrade" which was bringing nothing but issues. I did all I could to keep my gear dry but I'm not sure that would have been possible. I'm just thankful that I was able to dry things when I could. I may also have taken newer trail runners for their better grip had I known the sort of mud I would be dealing with. My full gear list is at the end of this writeup.
I can't closeout without mentioning how grateful I was for the chance meeting with Paul. I wonder how many hikers along the Kerry Way have their trip defined by the amazing hospitality of him or others alike. It's a beautiful thing to experience the kindness of locals in this way. It makes me think back to similar experiences in Scouting, and particularly the Explorer Belt. Where an adventure may seemingly epitomise independence, but in the end just reminds you of our dependence on others and how okay that is.
I consider myself very lucky to have had this experience. Through the rain, wind, mud and lightning, I wouldn't change a thing. I couldn't be more thankful that I ignored the rational minds around me and sought adventure that week. Though I may let the storm pass before I start the next one.
Thank you for reading,
Brian
More Photos
Gearlist
Lighterpack Gearlist: https://lighterpack.com/r/csyj25
Comments