Mount Kilimanjaro

This is the story of a week that Seán Ennis and I spent above the clouds. From the dust, cold and thin air that guards the summit, to the local hospitality and warmth that make it accessible. Rainforests turn to desert, and volcanic sand turns to ice, ascending 2km higher than most skydives. The city and it's worries fade away as you finally reach the coldest and most surreal sunrise imaginable. I learned a lot through this adventure and have tried to include as much as possible here.

Background

Mount Kilimanjaro is a dormant volcano in an otherwise flat savannah of Tanzania, only 20km from the Kenyan border. It is Africa’s highest peak at 5,895m, one of the seven summits, and the tallest free-standing mountain in the world. Eruptions over 360,000 years ago left three volcanic cones; Kibo, Mawenzi & Shira. The summit is on Kibo’s crater rim, named Uhuru which is Swahili for 'freedom'.

The mountain was said to be made of gold & silver, with an approach guarded by spirits. Two German missionaries wrote in 1848 that upon realising the top was not a cloud, they finally understood the stories. The snow capped peak even has glaciers, something early explorers thought impossible in the area. The name is Swahili, from Kilima meaning 'mountain' & Njaro meaning 'white'. A name which echoes Mont Blanc in Europe.

In 1889, Hans Meyer and Ludwig Purtscheller became the first people to reach the summit. Since then, Kilimanjaro has become a popular hiking destination for locals and tourists. The climb takes four to eight days and is often called the worlds highest trek, as no technical experience or equipment is needed. The challenges instead are altitude related, with limited oxygen and temperatures as low as -25°C. Anyone who can run 10km has the physical fitness, but it's the mental challenge that's become the allure of reaching The Roof of Africa.

Kilimanjaro has five ecological climate zones. The Arctic Summit (Ice Cap) has seasonal snow, year round glaciers and is devoid of almost all life. The Alpine Desert is slightly less inhospitable, but mostly sand and rugged rock formations. The Moorland has hardy shrubs, grasses and heathers, sometimes compared to the Scottish Highlands. The Rainforest surrounds the mountain with a dense and damp home to all sorts of plants and animals. Then finally the surrounding area benefits from rain and rich volcanic soil to form the Civilisation or Cultivation Zone; full of human life and arable farmland.

Acclimatisation is Key

Air is less dense or thinner at altitude. Oxygen molecules are more spread out, resulting in each breath containing less of them. Our bodies must adapt to extract more than normal, and this is what's known as acclimatisation. Breathing and heart rates naturally increase, allowing more air in and more oxygen to be transferred from the lungs to our blood. The body also ramps up the production of red blood cells, which are our oxygen carriers.

More red blood cells makes the body more efficient at extracting oxygen, thereby increasing fitness and stamina. It's the reason why athletes and teams train at altitude, and it's the basis for the infamous doping drug EPO. In high altitude mountaineering, acclimatisation is a core foundation of the sport, rather than a means of competitive advantage. Strategies like climbing high, sleeping low and cleverly designed itineraries will manage hypoxic conditions to maximise the acclimatisation process.

Kilimanjaro's summit (just below 6,000m) has 50% the oxygen of sea level. The single biggest factor of summit success is trip length, with a five day climb having 50% success, versus seven day climbs having 90%. This gives an idea of time needed to allow survival on the summit, albeit uncomfortably. Symptoms of acute mountain sickness (AMS) are almost guaranteed, such as headaches, nausea and dizziness. Also, red blood cell production uses huge amounts of water and energy, so drinking 4 to 5 Litres a day and being constantly tired is common. Pairing all that with poor sleep, a constantly high heart rate and non existent recovery takes it's toll over the days.

For completeness I'll note that acclimatisation is slower for higher altitudes due to exceptionally slow recovery. For 7,000m (42% oxygen) it takes two weeks on average with specific rotations/altitudes being key. As for 8,000m (33% oxygen) it takes six weeks, although this is a misnomer as that is just beyond what a human body can adapt to. Anything from there up to Everest's peak at 8,848m is purely survival and is only recommended with supplemental oxygen.

Routes & Guides

First things first; it is illegal to climb Kilimanjaro without a guide. While it's seen as a fun challenge, there are real risks to climbing too fast. AMS can develop into brain swelling, and normal breathing difficulties can become fluid in the lungs. Guides know the signs and will test blood oxygen levels to confirm. They will discreetly carry an oxygen tank and prophylaxis drugs to delay effects, and they're trained in rapid evacuation which is the only real remedy. They're also experts on preventing issues before they happen, making them the sole reason that this climb is considered safe.

With that out of the way, there are seven standard routes to the summit. These include the shortest Marangu, the scenic Lemosho, the most difficult Umbwe and the longest Northern Circuit. All of these trips can be tailored for a range of days, which is again the biggest factor in summit success. After my research it was obvious that the seven day Machame route was perfect for us. High success rate and it passes all the best features of the mountain; like Shira Cave, the Lava Tower and the Baranco Wall.

I reached out to local operators and chose Kisambi Tours. The owner Elisante is fantastic and I've passed on his details to several people since. We were able to book a two person, 7-Day Machame climb with summit night on the September full moon. This is the quietest month of dry season, the most favourable night within that, and the exact trip I'd hoped for! This personalised tailoring is only possible with local operators.

The cost was $1,650 per person which got us two guides (with 300 & 150 summits respectively), a chef & six porters, along with all transport, park fees, tents, mattresses and food for the seven days. Price reduces with more people (as less porters are needed) but we opted for a personal trip. The deposit was $100 each with the rest on arrival. Every dealing with Elisante was professional and inspired confidence in the lead up and during the trip.

International operators typically charge two to three times higher than we paid, due to flying in western guides. They have set routes and dates which limit flexibility, and large groups which add the risk of losing a guide to someone else's bad preparation. As Elisante put it to me; Kilimanjaro is a sociable mountain, you'll meet lots of people in the camps, but your trip should be your own. If you want to get up early, or sleep in, or walk faster, those should be your decisions. For us, paying less to have a more personalised trip was a no brainer.

Preperation & Logistics

Flights to Kilimanjaro International Airport were €650 return from Dublin, via Qatar. The airport is one hour from two regional capitals; Moshi the climbing hub, and Arusha the safari hub. We decided to stay in Moshi before and Arusha after, which I'd recommend. Moshi is great for meeting operators and renting gear, but Arusha is better setup for tourism as it's the gateway to the Serengeti.

We booked a basic twin room in Moshi for before the climb, and a luxury one with a pool in Arusha for after. We also booked an all inclusive, 3-day safari from Arusha, and allowed additional days to relax and explore. Tanzania uses UK plugs, speaks English and drives on the left. The time zone is two hours ahead of Ireland and the visa is easy to get online.

We packed summer wear for the towns, hiking clothes for the mountain and everything we owned for the summit! For that I had six top layers, four bottoms and multiple socks but was still freezing until the sun came up. Trail runners were perfect, but you need boots for warmth on summit night. Sun protection and a buff for dust are very important too. You can rent everything in Moshi for cheap, but we only rented expedition sleeping bags, mittens and extra Nalgene bottles (disposable ones aren't allowed).

We got US Dollars from the Post Office as they've no exchange fee. Separate envelopes had money for the climb, tips, safari and general spending. These were well hidden in our bags and always with us on the climb.

Vaccines are optional for Tanzania, but I would recommend; DTP, Typhoid & HepA at least. STI clinics in Ireland give free HepA & HepB vaccines (usually €275 minimum) so getting both is worthwhile if doing further remote travel. The rabies shot isn't necessary as you're always within 24hrs of a hospital. I already had all of these and more, so just needed a Typhoid booster to be up to date. Seán got everything which takes six months between the doses, so that process was started early.

There was a low risk of Malaria at the time but we both took Malarone to be safe. It's the most expensive antimalarial but has less side effects than Doxycycline, which was important to us for the climb. This was one pill a day, starting two days before and ending seven days after leaving Tanzania. It's a good idea to take them for two days at home to test for side effects if you haven't used them before, so a few extra are no harm.

And finally the wonder drug; Diamox (Acetazolamide). This treats inflammation by making you pee more, thereby excreting bicarbonate and leaving your blood slightly acidic. A happy side effect is that the body wrongly assumes the cause is carbonic acid from excess carbon dioxide. The response is an increase in red blood cell production, which is why doctors prescribe it for high altitude mountaineering. Guides will recommend you take it, and almost everyone who makes it to the summit does. It's not a cure for AMS, but it starts you acclimatising both earlier and faster, which can make all the difference.

You can find Diamox in Tanzania but it's not guaranteed, so we got it at home. Our pharmacist split the 250mg pills for us so we could take half with breakfast and half with dinner. We did a two day trial with no issues, and took them from two days before altitude until one day after. The pills are cheap compared to the prescription cost so I got extra for future endeavours.

Arrival in Moshi

The plane seemed huge for such a small airport. Mostly tourists bound for the Serengeti, but we both looked through the warm, dry air for a mountain hidden in clouds. Security was done outside, then a quick visa check (bring a pen) and our bags were neatly stacked and waiting. I was amazed by how clean the airport and surrounding area was, and that they actually enforced their country wide ban on plastic bags! Taxis to either city are $50, and the brand new highway passed villages and camels as we got a warm welcome from the driver.

An hour later, we took a bumpy road to our hostel. A basic ensuite with breakfast, friendly staff and a ten minute (slightly dodgy) walk to Moshi centre. We explored the town, bought silly souvenirs and Tanzanian jerseys, then got a nice dinner with some Kilimanjaro beers. Seán went out for a match that night while I got some extra water and rest.

The next morning Elisante met us at the hostel with Ally; our lead guide. They were super friendly, checked our gear and drove us to rental shops for the rest. I rented a brand new North Face sleeping bag rated to -29°C, worth €900 but cost me $40! Everything was reasonable and it was nice to have the guys there too. After they brought us to a café, treated us to drinks and local tea, and explained the plan for the hike which begins with pickup the next day.

Elisante arranged a ridiculously discounted tour of Materuni village for that afternoon, insisting that we can't miss his famous homeplace. A driver named Emmanuel brought us up the scenic road to Kilimanjaro's foothills where green, lush landscapes reminded me of the banks of the Nile. First a hike to swim under Materuni waterfall which was unbelievable, meeting tourists and locals on the way. Then to a coffee plantation where we ground and brewed coffee from scratch, using original tools and singing local songs.

Anything can grow here due to the volcanic soil and rainforests above, but it was found to be perfect for Arabica coffee. A giant pestel and mortar called a twanga is the centre of life, with song and dance moving between that, the fire and eventually the table. The coffee was probably the best I've ever tasted and Seán and I both bought beans to take home. Lunch was great too and I'm so glad Elisante arranged this.

That night we got dinner in town, finalised our packing and drank loads of water. The hostels balcony faces Kilimanjaro, which finally revealed itself from the clouds. We were excited looking up, but unsure what to expect of the coming week. We prayed that our bodies would adapt.

Day 1 - Rainforest Zone

Machame Gate (1,800m) to Machame Camp (2,835m)

The bus arrived at 9:00am and I was amazed by the amount of gear strapped to the roof. Ally introduced us to our assistant guide Abou, chef Hiza, and the six porters; Juma, Fabian, Hemed, Seif, Musa & Ridhwan. We stopped at Elisante's office to pay the balance, store extra bags (coffee beans and soon to be coffee smelling clothes) and got a team photo. Elisante wished us luck and we hit the road, seeing glimpses of the summit through clouds.

Machame Gate is one of the many entrances to Kilimanjaro National Park. It's clearly on a slope, right where open countryside meets rainforest, and full of expedition teams. The porters geared up, did their weigh-ins (max carry is 15kg) and set off first. Once Ally had all our paperwork and permits sorted we followed suit. It had been raining heavily but eased as we began walking.

There were lots of groups starting, but the trail itself felt quiet. Winding through humid forest where we saw monkeys, swinging vines and elephant trunk flowers (​impatiens kilimanjari), which is a symbol of the area. It was an easy few hours on nice trails to reach Machame Camp, where we took a photo with the first of many camp signs. We checked in at the hut and found our tent already setup, with our bags inside along with foam mattresses, a table and chairs.

It must be said that what the porters do is genuinely incredible. Their art is keeping you as fresh as possible until summit night, and they are truly invested in your success. We spent days feeling bad for all they did, usually apologizing and asking if we could help, but always met with; 'this is our job' or 'this is what we do'. They were mostly our age, all friends and loved climbing season when they get to camp together and watch soccer matches every night (they always have internet). They take huge pride in their work, and it's only clear afterwards how big an impact they have on summit success rates.

Today, like most days, we were given fresh popcorn on arrival. Basins of warm water for washing, fresh water to drink and hot water for tea, coffee and hot chocolate. Dinner always starts with soup, and tonight's main was a fish stew with potatoes, followed by fresh fruit. The glamping guilt is real and experienced by everyone, but trying to get a lesser service is simply not possible. There is genuine pride in a job well done, especially from the chef Hiza.

There was a nice sunset over the summit which most campers watched. Ally and Abou checked in on us and went over the plan for tomorrow, as they would every night. Ally was instantly like a father; easy going and humble, yet nothing feels left to chance. He's quietly aware of how much you're eating and drinking, he chooses the food and adds extra salt from experience, and even the warm water for hand washing is just a clever way to avoid any illness. We slept well that night.

Day 2 - Moorland Zone

Machame Camp (2,835m) to Shira Camp (3,750m)

Breakfast was always three courses too; fresh fruit, followed by porridge and then a fry with omelettes, sausages, pancakes and toast. It was genuinely ridiculous and we could never finish it all. We would leave our packed bags in the tent and set off with Ally & Abou, only to be overtaken by the porters who would have it all setup again at the next camp.

The day brought us out of the rainforest and into the moorland, which was rocky and had only the hardiest of plants. A stark contrast to the life of the rainforest, but still green in it's own way. Dirt trails were now gravel, and views back down the ridge show a sea of clouds moving below. We saw cool birds and after a few hours reached Shira Camp where an equally ridiculous three course lunch was waiting.

That night Ally took us for an acclimatisation walk, which is surprisingly hard to both get up for and to do. We saw Shira Cave and reached a viewpoint that looked out on the busy campsite. We discussed the plan for tomorrow, giving some time for the body to accept the elevation change, then descended back to have dinner, including fresh donuts for dessert. Groups near us sang Jambo Bwana which is the favourite song of all porters. I looked down at the sea of clouds during sunset, amazed by how quickly it seemed to flow. We both slept well again, feeling strong but far more tired than we had anticipated.

Day 3 - Lava Tower

Shira Camp (3,750m) to Lava Tower (4,600m) to Baranco Camp (3,900m)

An important acclimatisation day, reaching the height of base camp but descending again to adjust. The morning was spectacular with sunny views of the summit (which still looked so high). As we climbed, any heather and grasses got less common. Once it was just sand and rock around us we could tell we were in the alpine desert. The open landscape was novel to walk on, with winding paths and a bridge over a karst waterfall.

The lava tower is a huge piece of rock formed by a localised escape of lava in the past. We got photos and had our lunch at its base, moving on just as wind and clouds began to roll in. We'd been given a lunch which included fried pastries full of fresh vegetables, yet another thing that made us think Hiza was more a wizard than a chef. The descent was really nice too, back into the moorland with massive groundsel trees (the pineapple looking ones) and eventually reaching a particularly scenic camp.

Ally had spent days repeatedly asking us to slow down (Pole Pole in Swahili), saying we'd see why after lava tower. He was surprised that neither of us had any symptoms yet, and that night agreed that we could speed up, which we were glad of. There was a big dust storm raged through the camp and everyone hid in their tents, but afterwards a fog lifted to reveal an unreal sunset. The summit was directly above us and lit up by the colours.

Day 4 - Baranco Wall

Baranco Camp (3,900m) to Baranco Wall (4,150m) to Karanga Camp (3,995m)

The Baranco Wall stands between this camp and the next. There are some simple but fun scrambles to get over it, which although it causes some queues were really fun. I liked the kissing rock halfway up and even with the fog it was a great day. At the top we got the classic photos of jumping on the edge and stayed there for lunch.

We had fun with our faster pace from there, overtaking other teams through a big descent and another climb. When we reached the campsite we were ahead of the porters, this time us having to assure Ally that all was okay! He was very much not used to this being the case.

The porters had resupplied fresh food today so dinner was fried chicken, chips and salad. Somehow done on a portable gas stove with two pots. Hiza told us he always loved cooking and his first job was as a safari chef. He's never worked in a restaurant so doesn't feel limited by what you can carry. Bags of fresh vegetables with leaves hanging out the sides become such elaborate meals, and prove daily that he takes his job very seriously.

Another evening walk brought us up 200m along a ridge. This again was hard to get up for but I began to see the benefit as it prepares you for the late start on summit night. We touched just into the alpine desert where we saw 100's of small cairns. After picking a start time for the morning, we made our own cairn and watched the sunset as we descended.

It was a remarkably clear evening. Seán and I took the opportunity to get some night photos of the mountain, and of Juma who wanted to see how well the long exposures worked. The porters tent was lively with lots of cheering for a match, and other teams sang in the distance. We were both surprised to not have any symptoms yet, and continued focussing on strong deep breaths at all times. After a final cup of hot chocolate, which had become the evening ritual, we were soon fast asleep.

Day 5 - Base Camp

Karanga Camp (3,995m) to Barafu Camp (4,673m)

The big day had arrived, and donuts in the morning fry showed it! We got a group photo and set off, keeping a fast pace. A foggy descent followed by a steep zig zag up a cliff, which brought us back to the alpine desert and into Barafu Camp for 10:30am. Several routes converge here so it was full of people, only a few choosing the higher Millennium Camp for worse quality sleep, but a shorter summit night.

We were well ahead of the porters so we sat outside the check in hut with two Belgians and watched the tired people descending. Some almost looked drunk and we saw two medical evacuations which did look pretty scary, both older women. Our porters managed to get the best possible tent spot after another team left, putting us beside the camp sign and right on the cliff edge with the best view. There was a bitter chill in the air which warranted hot chocolate, but it was beautiful.

Ally told us the plan after lunch. He said everyone gets up at 11:00pm and leaves by midnight, but was concerned we'd summit too early and miss sunrise if we did that. Instead he picked 1:00am for us to get up, and then we could walk at our pace.

He went through what to carry, including only 1 Liter of water stored upside-down (so still drinkable if partially frozen). We'd been reminded at every camp not to leave valuables unattended, this was the busiest camp so far so Juma would sleep in our tent after we left to watch everything. The plan was clear, all we had to do was fill up on water and rest.

We got in our usual 4 Liters of water early and slept most of the day. Dinner was a hearty stew with a big dessert, after which we sat at the cliff edge watching the view. All fog had lifted and Ally said it would be cold but perfect conditions. The clouds below were an ocean, with only Meru poking through (a 4,566m volcano, 70km away). We stayed up until sunset, sitting with hot chocolate as the summit lit up in all the colours, and then went dark. The porters wished us luck and with that, it was time for bed. We didn't sleep very well, but Ally said even the guides rarely do up here.

Day 6 - Arctic Summit

Barafu Camp (4,673m) to Uhuru Peak (5,895m) to Mweka Camp (3,100m)

When the alarm rang, we felt groggy but ready. We put on all our clothes and had some tea and biscuits outside. We could see trails of head torches headed up the mountain, leaving us the only ones awake in the eerily silent campsite. It was very cold so we got going soon.

With Ally in front and Abou behind, we marched up. The full moon was so bright that I never turned on my head torch. It took 30mins to pass Millennium Camp and another 30mins to catch our first group. We had been chatting all the way, but the effects of altitude become clear after overtaking, both of us well out of breath. The chatting lessened as we strategically overtook several teams at the corners of narrow zig-zagging trails.

By 5,000m, the surface was all a fine volcanic sand. Dark black and difficult to climb as every step slides back down a little. Some larger groups moved extremely slow and were difficult to overtake, causing us to run past on a corner which you feel instantly. We passed a group with a speaker that was playing Time of My Life. I turned to Seán and signalled for him to do the Dirty Dancing jump, which caused laughter that became a coughing fit, and a promise of no more jokes!

At 5,400m, I started to feel nauseous. At this point we were one of the first groups so Ally had us sit down and drink some warm water which helped immensely. Over the coming hour we took two more short breaks to catch our breath and sip from the flask before finally the ascent levelled off and we saw a sign. Congratulations, you are now at Stella Point; 5,756m. We had reached the crater rim and were staring down into the volcano.

The wind felt harsh and the cold went deep into our bones. It was relatively flat for the next hour as we rounded the crater rim through beautiful rock formations. Although the snow had melted months before there were huge glaciers below, cliffs of ice that seemed to defy physics. Putting one foot in front of the other was getting progressively harder, through a tiredness that was quickly adding up.

The world started to light up from behind us, with the most fake sun rise I've ever seen. Rising over the sea of clouds that was 4km below us, glowing around the visible curve of the Earth and casting a sharp shadow of Kilimanjaro off into the distance. Through tired eyes I looked from that shadow to the grouping of people around a small sign in the distance. A sign we were quickly approaching.

Uhuru Peak was different than I expected. As if all I knew was an image of a sign, but now the details were filling in with surreal views and emotions. It was overwhelming to have all the stress instantly lift, and to share that moment with Seán. We took our photos and sat for a while, thanking the guides and taking it in. Both of us celebrate in different ways, me getting my handstand photos and him having a smoke with the two Belgian lads (after considerable trouble getting a lighter to work). It's not recommended to stay more than 15mins so after clearly breaking that rule we got going.

Things got very warm now that the sun was out. Layers came off and we moved quickly, skiing down the sand after Stella Point. Our lungs were filled with dust and everything felt easier as we got lower. Seán went ahead with Abou who should both ski competitively after what I saw, while I descended with Ally. We chatted in detail about his life as a guide, the nature of working on the mountain, the realities of balancing it with family life and all he's learned from over 300 summits.

When we got back to camp the porters were waiting to congratulate us. They had chilled apple juice in plastic champagne glasses and all shook our hands. Of course we laughed and pointed to how easy Ally & Abou had made it look, but I could see they were genuinely happy we made it. We took off our dusty gear, put on shorts and with all the tent doors open for air we fell asleep. It was supposed to take eight hours to walk from base camp to the summit. We had made it up, down and been back asleep in less than seven.

As planned we awoke to leave around midday. I had a mild headache but I knew the descent would help. Seán still had no symptoms, something he puts down to living in a hypoxic state as a smoker (the guides had theories on the same). We packed our bags and said goodbye to the mountain, taking the direct route down.

Back into the moorland, reaching Mweka Camp at 2:30pm. It was a beautiful route with nice views of the rainforest below. Steps paved the way and we saw porters singing as they did resupplies up and down for other teams. There were stretchers with bike wheels along the side, ready for fast evacuations which the guides jokingly called ambulances. Most of the way was even paved with stone to make it more accessible.

That night, Hiza the wizard chef made more food which boggled my mind. Tips are always excluded in trip costs and left up to the individual. We thanked everyone and gave out the well earned $700 in tips that Seán & I settled on. Some of the guys spoke to us individually to thank us too and I truly felt blessed to have found such a perfect team.

Day 7 - Back to Reality

Mweka Camp (3,100m) to Mweka Gate (1,600m)

It was an early start when we got up for a final breakfast. The two hours of rainforest flew by, mostly running as all the porters did. Everyone was excited to get home to their families, or in our case just a shower! We saw monkeys in the trees again, life which was non existent a day before. Through a gap in the forest we had a view of the summit, looking up and imagining all the tiny hikers struggling their way to the top. Rounding a final corner we saw the last sign at Mweka Gate; Congratulations, Bon Voyage.

There was a book to sign which held the names of all who summited. Certs were printed and the office had the first WiFi in a week, letting us finally update our families. A taxi took us back to Elisante's to collect our other bags, a quick stop for a speeding fine, then on to Arusha as we had arranged before. There was a slight mix-up with me booking the world's worst hostel, but we were soon checked into The Outpost; a luxury complex on the outskirts of town.

Arusha

The following few days were paradise. So much good food and Kilimanjaro beers, mostly enjoyed by the pool, and sometimes in questionable bars. Nice cafe's and restaurants in town, silly souvenirs at the curio markets, and fun tours of the Tanzanite Experience & the Old Boma Museum. Plus an afternoon with a 100 year old giant tortoise. A run around town showed me so many cool sculptures and one day we got a taxi to the Cultural Heritage Centre which was full of Swahili artwork. I also made Seán try Zappa which was my favourite drink in Uganda. He was not a fan!

We did a three day safari of Tarangire, Lake Manyara & Ngorongoro Crater. We saw loads of lions, elephants, zebras, gazelles, wildebeest, buffalo, giraffes, hippos, flamingos, hyenas and Timon & Pumba as they call them. Also apparently a cheetah and rhino but even with binoculars my eyesight wasn't good enough to confirm. The safari was far more tiring than I expected, three days being more than enough and I hope I never hear La Isla Bonita by Madonna again! But I'm so glad we made time for it, particularly Ngorongoro which is a collapsed volcano that has all the above animals living in its crater.

I was sad to leave by the end, having really enjoyed my time in Tanzania. We had gotten to know a local taxi driver who did our airport run for $40, and with that we were truly back to reality. A final goodbye to the mountain from our plane window, and to a place which had a profound impact on us both in such a short time.

Afterthoughts

So that's a wrap. The trip was truly spectacular, both on and off the mountain. Much easier than we anticipated as far as base camp, but every bit as difficult as people say for summit night. Achievable and rewarding, but a very tough grind for sure. I don't know if I've ever felt so cold.

It took time to process just how surreal some of the views and experiences were up there. The summit was like a strange dream, one that I'm so thankful I was able to share with Seán. And one which has planted seeds for future adventures in us both. For a week, all of life's worries were gone, traded for a single goal. I think that's my favourite part of these experiences, but it does make readjusting afterwards difficult.

Tanzania is a stunning and very accessible English speaking country. Arusha was great to see and I'm glad we fit in such a diverse safari experience while there. I loved learning about tanzanite, the rare blue gem found only below Kilimanjaro, and the markets were amazing. With more time I would have taken the $50 flight to Zanzibar for a few days, but that will have to wait.

I couldn't be more thankful for Ally, Abou, Hiza, Juma, Fabian, Hemed, Seif, Musa & Ridhwan. Their diligence makes the trip much more special, turning the summit bid into a full team effort. In Moshi & Arusha, I could tell that pride in ones work was central to Tanzanian culture. Our team showed this everyday by going above and beyond in their own ways of helping. It was a privilege to learn about Swahili culture, to see the love everyone has for the mountain, the passion for one's work, and to have the chance to show the gratitude they deserve. Something that's clearly appreciated.

Thank you for reading,

Asante Sana 🙏

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