Introduction
Brian's Big Three
In June 2022, I left my job for a year of full-time travel. Before flying away I had three Irish adventures on my mind. A tight schedule saw them barely fit amidst two triathlons, two weddings and an already busy month. This logistical nightmare was the most physically demanding challenge of my life. Just thirty days to complete:
250km, Kayaking Ireland’s Longest River
131km, Hiking Ireland’s Oldest Trail
672km, Cycling Home via Ireland's Most Famous Bike Route
Individually difficult, and when combined in one month they almost broke me. However, it was more spiritually fulfilling than I had anticipated. A personal triathlon, spanning the whole country and stoking memories of all my past adventures. Each phase deeply significant to me and representative of my journey up to now. A closing of chapters, and a fitting farewell to the places and hobbies that were my life. An odyssey both beautiful and terrifying.
This is a writeup of Phase 3: Malin to Mizen
Malin to Mizen
Cycling the length of Ireland, from Malin Head in Donegal to Mizen Head in Cork. There's no one route or timeframe, with the 100's who do it each year all slightly differing. That's the beauty of the trip, allowing for a tailored itinerary to see and stay in the places you want. Even the most direct routes showcase some of Ireland's best mountains, valleys, lakes and coastlines.
The shortest route is 569km. The longest is 2,350km; following the jagged Wild Atlantic Way coastline. Most people aim for a week, choosing a route between 600-650km. The cycling record is 15hrs 30mins by Ronan McLoughlin from Donegal. The record for running the distance is an insane 3 days, 3hrs 47mins by Eoin Keith from Cork. Below are photos from Malin Head & Mizen Head respectively.
Preparation & Planning
Several factors decided the format of my trip. Most people go northbound from Mizen to Malin, getting a push from Ireland's prevailing winds. I however wanted the difficult shuttle to Donegal done beforehand, and also to have the symbolic finish of cycling home to Cork. Southbound was the right decision for me, despite absolutely brutal headwinds.
My body was not feeling good after the Shannon Source to Sea and The Wicklow Way. I was depleted of energy and had a lot of pains, especially in my back. I decided to book accommodation rather than camp, both to reduce weight on the bike, and for comfort. It meant committing to a predetermined route which was a worthwhile trade-off. I booked all accommodation in advance, including the closest B&B to Malin Head for the night before starting.
I had seven days if I was to complete The Big Three in a month as planned. I also had another wedding to be back for, so I targeted six days, giving a buffer if needed. My 672km route veered west into Mayo and the Burren. Also getting some more coastline, avoiding some busy roads and taking the Tarbert/Kilrush ferry along the Wild Atlantic Way. The earlier days were longer to frontload the effort, and I routed via towns with hostels where possible.
I had one waterproof pannier which held my spare clothes and toiletries. A waterproof handlebar bag held my phone, electronics and snacks. I packed some extra spares and patches for the bike just incase. And the weather was looking good so I had two water bottles, lots of electrolyte tabs and plenty of suncream. I wore padded bike shorts under normal clothes because I didn't expect to go very fast, and I didn't want to look goofy wearing tight cycling kit in towns and shops.
Day 0 - Getting to Malin Head
The bike started its journey first. My uncle Timmy had a wedding in Derry a few weeks beforehand. He drove the bike up for me, leaving it in a garage that I'd be able to access.
My journey began three days after The Wicklow Way. A very early drive to Cork, then a bus to Dublin, a bus to Derry and a final bus to my bike. At 2:30pm, I loaded the bags, checked everything and proceeded to get lost! Once out of the city the navigation became easier.
It was a 55km cycle north to my B&B. Fairly hilly, and made much tougher by how tiring the buses had been. Mentally this was a struggle given that I hadn't even began yet, but I progressed slowly. As the River Foyle became the Atlantic Ocean, I passed places I'd visited and camped in before. The hills were tough, so I treated myself to a takeaway in the last town before the top, reaching the B&B at 7:30pm. A 'Welcome Brian' sign, a friendly host named Michael with great stories, and his dog awaited me. I honestly couldn't have wished for a better start than here.
After a shower and a cup of tea, I laid out my things for the morning. I'd been caught in the start of a bad rainstorm which raged all night. From my window I watched the road to Malin Head become increasingly grey and wet. As the wind howled I went over and back on my plan for the morning.
Day 1 - Malin Head to Bundoran (159km)
After a wet and windy climb, I was alone at the top of Ireland at 7:30am. I've good memories of camping here in the past. Sunsets over my favourite sea cliffs and sunrises over the Éire 80 marking. I read plaques from similar trips which I'd never noticed on the castle before. I'd also never noticed the painted start line on the ground, where I sat imagining how far away the finish was. This moment was such a distant thought when I began the Shannon an eternity ago. It was surreal to really be here. I set off, downhill back to the B&B, where I dried off and had some breakfast.
I hit the road properly at 9:00am, leaving the storm behind me an hour later. Cycling through cute villages with old thatched cottages as the sun got stronger. By 11:00am this grew to the forecasted heatwave which would last for days. Donegal is beautiful, but oh so hilly, and equally windy. I stopped at some viewpoints, a church and a field of donkeys to say hello. Also stopping at several shops for water and to raid their snacks! It was mostly a nice day, but had some very low moments due to the humidity and a growing, relentless wind.
It was a battle to reach Letterkenny, Ballybofey and Donegal town. A B&B here would have been worth if I'd known how strong the sun and wind would be, but the Bundoran hostel was booked so I pushed on. Lots of music got me to Ballyshannon and finally rolling into Bundoran at 10:00pm!
I couldn't believe how hard this day was. Stunningly beautiful, but I was left at a standstill by the wind at times. I like frontloading trips, starting with harder efforts to grant shorter days later. Every day from here would be shorter, but the wind scared me. I got a late dinner in the town and fell asleep shortly after.
Day 2 - Bundoran to Castlebar (122km)
I was sore but well rested when I left at 9:00am. I crossed into Leitrim and within an hour into Sligo, over the Bunduff river which is a kayaking favourite of mine. Benbulben emerged and slowly changed as I cycled around it. I could see Cassiebawn to the west and was greeted by fields of horses on the way into Sligo town. I got a lunch here that could have fed a family, realising once again how dangerous shops can be when you're hungry.
After Sligo the day took a turn. The wind was funneling into me, stronger than ever. At the same time roads got worse, with sections having no hard shoulder. Probably 1 in every 5 drivers gets too close. Some drive as if you're not there, and when that's a truck it shakes the bike. An EZ Living Furniture van was one inch from clipping my handlebar at 100km/hr. I actually stopped for a while after that one, and may only shop in DFS from now on! Unfortunately for most routes you could choose, this section is both terrible and non-negotiable.
I hoped the situation would improve after Collooney when I'd head South West, but no such luck. The wind battered me even more and the roads had intermittent dodgy sections. I spent most of the day hunched in an aero position which wasn't helping my back, but was the only way I could keep moving. Entering Mayo in Charlestown, the road turned again. Now heading straight west is when the wind was at its worst and I was seriously struggling. When I finally reached todays 100km mark it was 5:30pm. Even with essentially no breaks I was barely moving. I had to stop here and look at my options.
I had booked a hostel in Westport, but it would be 9:30pm when I got there at this rate. I decided to book a last minute B&B in Castlebar instead. This was only 12km closer so the €100 cost felt silly, but I genuinely couldn't have gone any further. The last 20km to Castlebar were atrocious. I felt broken when I arrived, mentally and physically.
The B&B owner was amazing. Her son is a cyclist so she had me bring in the bike, insisted on washing my cycling clothes, and dishwashing my bottles so I wouldn't get sick. A shower brought me back to life and I treated myself to dinner at an Indian restaurant and some ice cream. I walked around the town trying to focus on the good, and to pull myself out of the slump I was in. I made a slight change to tomorrows route that avoided Westport, and I ultimately realigned myself with why I was here. The wind howled on through the night but I felt infinitely better going to sleep.
Day 3 - Castlebar to Galway (76km)
The B&B really was amazing. My washed clothes were outside my room when I woke up and the breakfast was incredible. I had a nice chat with the owner and two other guests before setting off into the sun at 9:00am again.
Time for the hard efforts to pay off, finally I could enjoy a shorter day. I pushed hard to make progress early through the flat and pretty landscape. Roads were narrow but I moved quickly, only stopping to see some cool bridges, funny cows scratching on a wall and the pyramid in Neale. Although it was windy, I felt like todays cycle was the right amount to not become a pain. I crossed into County Galway and signs counted down my approach to the city. Traffic was busy as I navigated my way to the hostel at 3:30pm.
I checked in, met some nice people there and had a beer by the Spanish arches, where a tightrope show was on. Niall Crosbie came in to meet me later and we got dinner and drinks together. I was over halfway in the cycle and my mood showed it. Every single muscle in my body ached when I went to sleep that night but I knew there was no stopping me now.
Day 4 - Galway to Quilty (92km)
I set off an hour earlier at 8:00am today. The busy roads of Galway calmed as I approached Oranmore. From here I followed the Wild Atlantic Way which had great views of the ocean. In Kilcolgan, I headed west towards Clare, stopping in Kinvarra to see the castle and the farmers market. There was live music and great pancakes in the market, making for a perfect second breakfast. Not long after I crossed into Clare and the Burren.
I'd been looking forward to this. Fun, winding roads with a great surface and almost no cars. The bushes on either side even helped to block the wind. I always love seeing Mullaghmore and met a really kind woman when I stopped at Father Ted's house. Other highlights included a cool lizard, loads of donkeys and getting to see the Only Fools & Horses car in Corrofin up close, rather than driving past it as usual.
No hostels were open so I'd booked a nice B&B in Quilty. Being only an hour from Limerick meant Katie was able to come up and join me for the night. We got dinner in Milltown Malbay and spent the evening exploring the beaches.
Day 5 - Quilty to Killarney (107km)
Back to my usual start time of 9:00am, I waved goodbye to Katie and cycled back to the main road. Within five minutes I was surrounded by over 100 cyclists, all racing the Ring of Clare. I had my aero position perfected by now so even with my touring setup I kept pace for 10km to chat with people. I did enjoy the confused looks people gave, obviously wondering why I'd turned up to a race in regular clothes and with paniers.
I wasn't after leaving the group long when I reached Kilrush. Very early too, having clocked my fastest splits of the trip. Here I got an ice cream and queued with the holiday crowds for the ferry across the Shannon Estuary. Upstream I could see my old workplace and the river I'd descended only weeks ago. We docked in Tarbert where I'd also once paddled in a gruelling day from Limerick. Back on the bike, I was in my second last county; Kerry.
I must hand it to them, the road surfaces are impeccable. If it wasn't for the wind I'd have moved pretty quickly, and if it wasn't for the dodgy drivers I'd have enjoyed it! Listowel castle was cool, and I passed an impressive wind farm. Wasn't much to this road otherwise, winding country roads and headwinds all the way to Tralee. And from there, no less windy but much more dodgy!
The ring roads of Tralee are tied with Mayo for worst in Ireland for me. The lines are painted on the very edge of the road, with not even an inch of hard shoulder. Pairing the high speed of cars and trucks with my slow speeds against headwinds, it was a recipe for disaster. I considered walking in the gravel at times. When I took the turn for Farranfore/Killarney I was so relieved.
Fighting my way over rolling hills, I got to see the McGillycuddy Reeks emerging. It was another long day, rolling into Killarney at 7:00pm. I checked into the only available, and my least favourite hostel in Killarney. Even though I'd sworn a few months ago I'd never stay here again.
After a shower and a pizza I went for a walk in the national park. I found myself sitting at the spot where my family and friends had supported me for the Ironman in 2021. I've been reliving years of memories throughout this trip and this one in particular was special. Deer roamed the fields below and the sun set over Carrauntoohil. I had drinks with two guys from the hostel that night and got some rest for what was planned to be my last day. More on that below.
Day 6 - Killarney to Bantry (68km)
Today was originally to be a 115km day to finish it out. However, the weather was incredible and I felt I'd earned my shorter, more enjoyable days, so I split it. A new B&B was booked in Bantry and I was on the road at 9:00am as usual. Heading out the beautiful road which crosses the Flesk river.
After another overly indulgent snack break, I found myself surrounded by huge cliff faces and mountains. Joining back to the main road I crossed the Roughty river and eventually reached Kilgarvan for an ice cream, (it was very hot today). A sheep tried to run with me as I passed the Slaheny river, and came to the tunnel this road is famous for. It had been a tough climb up to here, but the road and views were spectacular. Likely the most scenic of the whole trip.
The tough climb continued up and over Borlin Pass. Reaching the top had me entering Cork, which meant I was on the home straight. Unfortunately, it also meant the roads got instantly worse. The downhill couldn't be fully enjoyed due to gravel and potholes, but I barely pedalled all the way to the ocean. Rolling into Bantry Bay, I checked into my B&B around 4:00pm. This gave me loads of time to enjoy a dinner and evening in town, while still getting a good rest. I was indescribably excited for the next morning.
Day 7 - Bantry to Mizen Head (47km)
For such a tired and broken man, I woke with a spring in my step. Beautiful coastlines lined with boats, and climbs which almost felt easy. The final hills brought me into Goleen where I met two nice cyclists out for the day. They were stopping because of the heat but I was racing onwards. Past Crookhaven and through Barley Cove, probably Ireland's nicest beach and definitely today with the weather. After passing some swans, a sign directed me up the last hill to Mizen Head. Views of the beach turned to just ocean and this quiet road was perfect.
I could feel all the aches and pains of the month at once. As if every fibre of my body knew relief was coming. My whole body overwhelmed with joy. I remembered times when it all seemed impossible, especially my first day on the Shannon. Countless tough times when I visualised this moment to carry me. As I rounded the final corner I saw the Mizen Head sign and a deep pride sank in. I didn't slow down until I crossed the painted finish line. The end of the world and end of my mission.
I had an hour before my Mum collected me, time I was glad to have. I sat by the cliffs with my thoughts and an ice cream. I met a big group of cyclists who were about to setoff for Malin Head and wished them luck. I can say with confidence they chose the correct direction given the wind.
On the drive home I felt a deep appreciation for the journey and the beauty on my doorstep. Fulfilled in every way after doing what I thought might be impossible. The next year is going to challenge me in every way, but in this moment it all felt a little less daunting.
Afterthoughts
With hours to spare, I had achieved my goal of The Big Three in a month. With more time I'm sure the cycle could have been less painful, but I wouldn't change a thing. The route stoked so many nice memories, and the tough days at the start made for shorter and more rewarding days by the end. Tiny, unnamed hills almost killed me and make it so surreal to consider the distance as a whole. Thinking of all that I experienced in the week, let alone in the month.
I haven't really got recommendations for this one. Others may prefer to cycle in a group, or to camp, or to take a wildly different route. I personally wanted to be alone, to challenge myself as I saw fit and have that time with my thoughts. It was a spiritual journey, to retrace the steps of countless adventures before saying goodbye to Ireland for a time. For what I'd wanted, I got all that and more.
In a week I'll be abroad, pursuing new adventures on an uncertain path. I feel blessed to have formed this unique connection with my country before that trip. To have seen and experienced things which many will only dream of, things which will always connect me to home. The month as a whole was a fitting reminder of all I love about Ireland. All the people, the passions and the adventures which shaped my life up to now. This was an unfathomably difficult task, far beyond what I anticipated, but ultimately it was the send-off we both deserved.
Thank you for reading.
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