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Writer's pictureBrian O’Mahony

The Explorer Belt - Slovakia & Hungary

The Explorer Belt is a unique expedition available to Rover Scouts, aged 18 to 25. I completed the event under Scouting Ireland, but other countries have equivalents with slightly different criteria. Locations change every year and have included America, Scandinavia, Netherlands, Portugal, Poland, Croatia and all over Europe.


Background

Teams of two are dropped in an undisclosed location and must hike at least 200km over 10 days to reach a common base camp. Along the way they maintain a log with daily activities, route, menu, receipts and budgeting as they live off €2.50 per person per day. They also complete personal and team projects, sourcing all information from locals. Prescribed projects can be based on local values, traditions, music, sports, politics or daily life. There are also fun projects, all with the goal of facilitating interaction with local people.


The event tests communication, physical endurance and teamwork during immersion within a foreign culture, and usually a foreign language. Teams are entirely self sufficient, carrying their tent, stove and all equipment on their backs. Altitude, storms or extreme heat can add difficulty on any given year.


Upon reaching basecamp, teams undergo interviews which question all their decisions from the trip while work is reviewed. At a final award ceremony, those who hiked the full 200km receive a certificate. Completing all requirements earns the event badge, and exceeding all expectations earns the coveted explorer belt, for which the event is named. Since 1980, this subtle belt has been a revered symbol of achievement within Scouting.



The Venturer Challenge

My journey began with the Challenge, a sibling event for Venturer Scouts aged 15 to 17. Based only in Ireland, teams cover at least 100km over 5 days with all the same format, projects and award structure. The highest award is a pewter woggle, worn with pride as this in itself is no easy feat.


In 2013, myself and a friend Eoin Creagh took this on. We trained weekly and planned everything from gear to logbook formatting. For the events practice weekend in North Dublin, we walked from Dunshaughlin to Malahide over two days. This taught us a lot like how SuperValu doesn't suit the budget, and that cooking a hot lunch is a massive waste of time. After feedback from the organisers on our logs, we refined everything and began the real event feeling super confident.


Here we were. Buses drive for hours. Randomly we'd pull over and they'd choose a team envelope from the overhead compartment. Whoever was picked would get off, have their photo taken and we'd leave them. When our time came we were dropped in Arvagh, Cavan. Our envelope held a map, details of projects and the base camp location; Athlone. The start is a chaotic information overload, but we bought some food, got our bearings and started walking. We chose an interesting route which met the minimum distance while passing any castles and sights we could. In large towns we stopped to talk to people for projects and everyday spent hours writing up all we learned. We met loads of amazing people along the way.


After each days walk, we had to get permission from a landowner to camp in their garden. Going door to door always made me nervous but I couldn't believe the hospitality we found. We never tried more than two houses before being accepted, and everyone was incredibly helpful, especially with our projects. We slept in small housing estate gardens and on the tennis court of a mansion one night. You can't ask for anything but can accept what's offered, and in this we got lots of tea, some chocolate eggs left by our tent and one man let us avoid the rain by cooking and eating in his kitchen. The way people welcome you into their homes and lives is the simple beauty of this expedition that's difficult to find elsewhere.


The last night we updated the logbook for hours outside The Three Jolly Pigeons pub. Just as it was time to find a house, the pub owner arrived to open up. He was interested in what we were doing and offered us the yard behind. Our projects on local culture had us touch on Oliver Goldsmith, the famous poet who's home and school we had walked right past. As it happens the pub is named after a poem of his, and the owner was the chairperson of the Goldsmith International Literary Festival. The second longest running of it's kind. He brought our knowledge and projects to a whole new level and chatting to him was a highlight of the trip.


We had a very busy week as we were ambitious in the standard of work we did. Arriving in Athlone Castle we were exhausted and proud knowing we had given it our all. The interviews over the coming days were easy when we'd worked so hard, and they mostly just praised what we'd given them.


In between interviews we stayed in Lough Dan Scout Centre with the other teams. Activities like kayaking, rock climbing and building natural shelters in the woods that we slept in were unreal. There's a great bond between everyone who's made it to the end, with lots of stories shared. Not everyone was awarded the woggle for different reasons, but it was a very proud moment when myself and Eoin achieved ours. We brought them back to our group with stories that would convince many others to sign up the following year.


Looking back, I couldn't be happier with how every aspect of the trip went. After studying logbooks beforehand, we'd wanted to set the standard by leaving our group with a perfect set that could guide anyone to success. We were meticulous in our planning and pulled it all off without a hitch. In an event like this, you know the format but have no idea what experiences and stories will shape it. The people you meet are the memories that stick with you and I'm so grateful to have had this opportunity.


Eoin was an amazing team mate and we chatted and sang non stop for the whole trip. We never argued and were closer after then we ever were before. It was a great decision to do this with him, and his unbreakable positivity is what made it so fun.



Belt Preparations

As the only 17 year old on the Venturer Challenge, I was alone in looking to next years Explorer Belt. Unfortunately Eoin wouldn't be 18 yet, but I wanted to go while I was motivated. Eoin's older brother Adam was a good friend who also did the Challenge a year before me, so we decided to take it on together. We were amongst the youngest to signup but knew we were ready.


This felt bigger from the get go with an information night for participants and parents six months before. The inherent risks are mitigated but they exist none the less. We met the other teams and joined in the nervous excitement.


Both busy with college, Adam and I trained when we could. Walking back roads around Fermoy with a bag of potatoes in our rucksacks, we hardened our feet to avoid blisters. We used the logbooks and projects that Eoin and I had designed as a base to put together an ambitious plan. We had the conversation that this would be tough to keep on top of, but agreed it was worth it.


We fine tuned our gear and went truly ultralight. Bags are usually 10-12kg, with some poorly prepared teams having 15-17kg each. It hurts to looks at them lifting the bags onto each other and straining under the weight. We were light and agile on the other hand, with my 35L bag under 7kg and Adam's similar.


We'd been told it would be Slovakia or Hungary, so we made notes and learned common phrases like asking to stay in a garden or finding water. The two day training weekend was great fun, and a fantastic opportunity to see where we were at. We'd no issues and before long we found ourselves at the airport. This was it.



Day 1 - Plešivec to Tornal'a

The start was a blur. Our surprise flights were to a remote airport via Heathrow. Driven in a bus we anxiously awaited being dropped off, watching daylight fade with no idea where we were. At a small unmarked bus shelter our team number was called and off we went.


It's overwhelming and surreal as you read everything in the envelope. The finish line was Eger in Hungary. There's fun projects and complex projects, some must be started today. A phone to send locations to daily. Rules and explanation letters, but none of that mattered. Firstly there was a map of Hungary and we'd no idea where we were on it.


The bus shelter had no hints so I ran 500m and I found a sign; Plešivec. Not obvious on the map and missing from the legend of all towns. It took 10 minutes until Adam found it, in the sliver of Slovakia at the top of the map. Eger was only 90km away so we had a lot of freedom to choose a scenic route (you can't finish early and must walk 200km).


After 10km we reached Tornal'a, and it was already getting late. We had a funny interaction asking a woman about sleeping in her garden. In Slovak; Yes is Áno, shortened to 'No'. Very confusing when she's smiling and opening the gate for us repeating no no no. Not a word of English (like most people we met), but was very welcoming and gave us some flavoured tea. That night was madness trying to buy food, start the workload and get a good nights sleep with very limited time, but we did what we could.



Day 2 - Tornal'a to Martinová

We chose a route that was roughly half and half in each country. Starting south towards the border, we'd move to smaller rural roads heading west until the next main border crossing. We set off early and the smaller roads had a very different feel. The first town we walked through didn't feel very safe, with lots of barbed wire and unwelcoming looks. Every house has a guard dog and they all went crazy as we approached. A big concrete prison in the town centre and a statue of a man with an AK-47 had us happy to leave.


It was the next town we were to stay. Much smaller with maybe twenty houses but a similar uncomfortable feel. Almost all had guard dogs so it was tough to ask but we found a lovely old couple at the very last house who took us in.


One of the fun projects was to cook a local meal. They didn't speak English but after a game of charades we found ourselves around a campfire cooking Szalonna with our hosts. Essentially fatty pork and an onion that you roast on a stick, putting the drippings onto a slice of bread. It took atleast an hour to cook and although we couldn't understand a word we said to one another, it was a lovely time spent with them. That night we got intense rains and the tent swayed in the wind, we prayed that wouldn't continue.



Day 3 - Martinová to Ožďany

We decided to only sleep along the main road after yesterdays towns. Walk the back roads but don't sleep there. It had been hot all along, but went over 40 degrees today. No amount of water was enough and 5km short of our goal we were shattered and headed for a row of houses.


The first few looked run down and dodgy. We tried one with a beautiful garden and an old couple on a swing. We thought they said yes, but they guided us back to one of the dodgy looking houses and arranged that we stay there. The farmer came out and was very nice. He showed us to a field of cows where we fit the tent between the droppings and got dinner cooking.


Todays lesson was don't judge a book by its cover. The farmers daughter came down to get us and back at the house we were given tea and snacks with the whole family. Not a word of English between them but a lovely gesture. Fifteen deadbolts on the thick door looked like a vault and you'd have never guessed how beautiful the interior was from outside. That night the same daughter dropped us down a 2L coke bottle of fresh milk, still warm. We were a little slow to drink it, but it was a nice change to the water.



Day 4 - Ožďany to Radzovce

The heat had now dictated an unsociable schedule. From now on we got up at 4:00am, walking by 5:30am latest. We preferred to not stop until the walk was over as this is easier on the feet. Being done the walk well before midday was always a nice mental treat too.


The €2.50 budget was really easy to stick to. When we got our salami and cheese rolls today, the rolls were reduced from 6 cent to 4 cent. With those savings we got an extra one each! That with a yoghurt and some fruit was the usual lunch and it was always astonishingly cheap.


We were behind on logs and projects at this point as there simply weren't enough hours in the day. We dedicated a lot of time to fixing this and then looked for a host. First house we tried and the guy was great. We still hadn't heard English since starting but were getting better at charades. Turned out this was his mothers house and he wanted to drive us to his place. Getting in a car is an instant disqualification, and the organisers (sweep team) drive discreetly to see every team multiple times a day. It's not worth the risk so with him very confused we followed his car as he drove slowly across town.


What a night. He got his daughter and her husband to call over because they spoke English. We were still in Slovakia but they were Hungarian and taught us some phrases and pronunciations for over the border. Massive barbeque, a few beers, tonnes of great information for our projects. This was such a good night!



Day 5 - Radzovce to Kisterenye

Bright and early we crossed the border into Hungary. Through the awfully busy city of Salgotarjan, which we were glad to leave, and along some stunning countryside roads. We'd been disciplined today and finished our walk in Kisterenye at 9:30am.


We sat in the shade of some trees and tried to catch up on the work. We'd been falling asleep writing projects most nights and were pretty far behind. There's less free time than you'd think and it was always late when we got to it, but by 4:00pm we'd finally caught up. This was hard work but a relief. Today the sweep team stopped by to say hello.


Midday, a nice man had come over and given us a box of sour cherries. These were super fresh and addictively good. The same man came back as we finished up writing, trying to communicate but struggling. He led us to his house where we met his son and daughter who were our age and spoke English. Perfect, two days in a row!


With English it was easy to explain ourselves and they'd no problem with us staying. They got two other friends over and they all joined us for food and drinks in the garden. Wonderful hospitality and they gave us homemade peach Schnappes. That night they brought us for a tour of their town which included an old church on a hill. The way they treated us like lifelong friends was amazing and this night was easily a highlight of the whole trip.


That night we got our first and only shower of the trip. A black barrel full of rainwater at the end of the garden, heated by the sun and fitted with a tap. We waited until it was pitch black to use this but it was good to feel clean again.



Day 6 - Kisterenye to Jobbágyi

There had to be bad days and this was it! During our walk a man stopped us who'd been cutting hedges and tried to steal Adam's watch that was on his shoulder strap. We pushed him off and he took Adam's sunglasses instead. We walked away and he didn't come after us, but there was a machete on the ground that he'd been cutting with so it was nerve wracking.


The town we were to stay at was weird. First guy we met led us to what was either a church or a Chinese restaurant. It was packed with people who kept trying to take our things and separate us. We were both hugely uncomfortable and had to take a stand to get the few things back from them and leave. They watched us from the door but didn't follow. The town had a big bridge and we said we'd cross it and try the other side.


On route two young teenage boys on their bikes started following us and made us uneasy. A nice man agreed to let us stay but insisted on the front garden. With the two boys watching us over the low wall we used charades to get the back garden, hoping it was enclosed. It was not. There was a low fence to a playground where the two boys sat on swings watching us until it was pitch black. Adam didn't really sleep that night and bright and early we were gone. Not a great day.



Day 7 - Jobbágyi to Gyöngyössolymos

Mostly laughing off yesterdays troubles, we felt good. How could it get worse! The walk went fine and some writeups in town the same. At 4:00pm we looked for a place to stay. Our rates had been okay so far, usually with 30mins max to find a place. Not today.


Twenty houses and two hours later no one would take us. Beaten from rejection and heat we sat on a bench and Adam dropped a bombshell. His ankle was swelling, very sore and he couldn't walk anymore. It was the lowest moment of the trip and we thought it may be the end. I asked him to hold off on any decisions and trust me. The next house I tried was extremely hesitant, saying no a lot but I kept pleading and explaining (I was getting good with Hungarian begging). Eventually she said yes!


I dropped my bag and helped Adam over. I set up the tent, we cooked dinner and had Adam sitting with the ankle raised, iced and bandaged. We managed the swelling and relaxed in the sun. That night we moved gear so I took more weight and we crossed our fingers going to sleep.



Day 8 - Gyöngyössolymos to Detk

Success, he could walk on it. By the end of this day I felt like I was doing damage to my own joints with the weight, but we managed 20km. The roads were beautiful and we passed a castle and a small zoo.


One fun project was to continuously up trade from a potato. This made great conversation and trades brought us a toy elephant, different foods and almost a rabbit. Today our final trade got us a bottle of wine. Much heavier than the keyrings that other teams stopped at, but would be worth it at the end.


The house that took us in was really nice and we slept in their beautiful orchard. Surrounded by sour cherries, this was paradise as I was now addicted to them. We had a routine at this point and everything flowed well, working great as a team. We were still falling asleep writing the projects but were getting there.



Day 9 - Detk to Verpelét

Gear redistributed, the end was in sight and the ankle held up fine. There's a rule that you must stay at least 10km from the finish the last night. We'd drawn a 10km circle on the map and there was one town exactly 11km out. It was an obvious choice so we headed for there.


So far we'd only seen one other team. Twice we passed them at crossroads but never really overlapped. With 20 teams in a giant circle around Eger, we were all getting much closer now. Our early starts to beat the 40 degree heat got us to town early, and we found a nice spot to finalise projects. Then others started arriving, almost every other team in fact. Some great catch ups were had here.


As we all wrote together, every team stuck to their routine and at a certain time left to find a place to stay. You never want to leave it too late so it's a fine balance, 4:00pm is generally what we'd done. A team that went looking at 2:30pm had passed us over and over and said it was a tough town. At 4:00pm we were of the last to set off, expecting a long stint of asking.


First house didn't answer (even though they were there). Second house said yes instantly. No English but they were delighted to have us. We set up the tent and lying on the grass with their dog jumping around it felt like paradise. Half an hour later we saw teams still looking. Not sure how we got so lucky.


This was a busy night and once again I fell asleep onto the books with my head torch still on. Definitely sleep deprived but I managed to clear it all. Just a short summary to do tomorrow, but all projects and logbook entries done. Adam was mostly the same too.



Day 10 - Verpelét to Eger

The last early start and a cheerful walk brought us to Eger, clocking a total of 222.5km. There was a one hour window for finishing and we joined all the teams at picnic benches close by. Quick write ups and we used some of our remaining money to get ice creams and relaxed in the sun. It was surreal to walk into base camp after preparing so long for this journey. All anxieties of injuries and issues gone. Tired, sun burnt, stinky and delighted.



Base Camp

Showers, food, beers and messy celebrations. We had great fun exploring the town with everyone for a few days. Mountain trails, nice food and the Eger Wine Festival which was €2 for a glass and free wine then! Understandably another messy night.


All in all the few days were great. Nothing too crazy, but nice to relax with the other teams that we were now so bonded with. It was a well deserved rest for us all and lots of fun stories were made as the blisters healed.



In this time, work was reviewed and we had three interviews over two days. Ours were relatively relaxed as we had everything done by the book. There was stress and tears elsewhere which was tough to see, but our late nights had paid off at least. All of a sudden the famous final dinner approached.


It was a nice moment getting ready as there's a lot of pride in the uniforms. For Adam and I it's a strong reminder of all that's been done for us in our Fermoy group. Adrian and Trish in particular have been mentors to us for years and helped shape us into the adults we are. Their guidance was everything in what we've achieved and we’re both so grateful to have met them.



We were all confused when we were led past the campsite dining area and up the mountain trails. We'd explored these and there's certainly no restaurants up there. On a small side trail we veered off and were led to a small cave. All standing inside there were candles and a small vigil was said for a previous Chief Scout of Ireland who had died that week. Following this a door opened revealing a long narrow hallway, leading you deep into the cave.


It felt like a movie walking the carved, candlelit corridor. It got colder with every step but with the heat outside it was nice. You could feel the depth, with a mountain over your head. A door at the end revealed a huge banquet hall, like something from Game of Thrones. A massive dining table and chairs, large pillars, candlelit chandeliers and a medieval style band playing lutes. To this day it's probably one of the coolest dinners I've ever had.


We were served a ten course meal. The campsite owner introduced each dish, along with samples of his six homemade wines. Each person chose their favourite and was given a full bottle. Everything from the food to the themed servers made this feel very special.


After dinner a presentation on the dark wall ran through photos of each team. Stories were given that summarised each trip, highlighting just how different they all are. A table of belts was impossible not to notice and a fresh nervousness came over everyone. There was only so confident you could be, and we were scared too. The gaps feel like an eternity as they announced.


Team 6. Adam and Brian are awarded the certificate..... badge..... and belt. Congratulations.



A beautiful moment that I'll never forget. It's awful when the gap never ends for some. It transitions to clapping and they collect the badges bittersweetly. After the ceremony the belts go straight into your bag out of respect for those few. That night was fairly relaxed and the next morning we packed up everything to leave.


To end the trip we all had a day and night in Budapest. Exploring the city was a lot of fun and the weather was much more pleasant without a bag on your back. We caught a late flight, getting into Dublin around midnight. Busses had been arranged to take us towards home, ours to Cork where we'd be collected. Or so we thought.


After grabbing our bags we put on our uniforms and the belts for the final photo. Once everyone was ready we walked through the last gate to arrivals where all our families were waiting! It was amazing and took me completely by surprise. We took our last photo's, said our goodbyes and it was a great end to a life changing trip.



Afterthoughts

The Explorer Belt is an intimate and enriching cultural immersion experience, disguised as an endurance race. In reality, the challenges are as much social as physical. Sharing every second with another person, approaching strangers and dealing with language barriers. Balancing self sufficiency with an ability to ask for and receive help. Putting faith in the inherent kindness of others and being mindful of every interaction that guides your steps. The shiny belt is what catches the eye, but there's a deeper meaning to this event.


It pushes you out of your comfort zone, and by the end changes your perspective. For some that's how you view your own abilities or skills. For others it's learning the inherent good of strangers and the beautiful similarity of their culture. For me it was the combination of developing independence, while also realising a complete dependence on others. A paradox that comes up time and again in life, but no more so than when you’re walking across a country.


The experience would never have been what it was without Adam. He was by my side for every training step in the rain, and every sun burnt (and burnt out) step in Slovakia and Hungary. No problem was insurmountable and we were able to laugh through the best and worst of times. Through every helping hand or difficult conversation, we were a team. It fills me with pride to think back on what we accomplished and I'm eternally grateful for all he did.


Adam and I have gone on to do some incredible things in our lives. We often reminisce on memories from this trip and have no doubt it shaped us. As I write this in 2022, Adam is now married to Ciara who he met as she earned her Belt the same year. They're not alone in this with two others now married after the same circumstances from our year. Even with completely unique trips, the bond we all share has stood the test of time.


Brian, Caolan, Adam, Brian & Ciara

Thinking About It?

Everyone knows the basics. The format, the distance and the requirements. What no one knows is what unique stories will define your Belt. Who will you meet? What mistakes will you make? How will the experiences change you? What friends will go on to affect your life? What crazy idea will seem more achievable for having done this?


Caolan is a friend who attempted the Belt the year before us. Injury ended the trip early and he returned our year to settle the score. His new team mate Brian was a friend from college who was invested into our scout group just for it. It was a great moment to see them both prevail after an amazing trip of staying with a town mayor and being fed every sour dairy product known to man. Brian embraced the friendly ways of scouting and proved that this experience isn't reserved for those of us brought up in the organisation.


If anyone is considering this trip, I'd say just sign up. There are important factors like partner selection and adequate training, but anyone willing to put in the work will be rewarded. Be kind, be open minded and be prepared. Both to succeed, and to be amazed. If anyone ever has any questions I'm always happy to lend a helping hand.


Happy adventuring,

Brian




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