Introduction
Brian's Big Three
In June 2022, I left my job for a year of full-time travel. Before flying away I had three Irish adventures on my mind. A tight schedule saw them barely fit amidst two triathlons, two weddings and an already busy month. This logistical nightmare was the most physically demanding challenge of my life. Just thirty days to complete:
250km, Kayaking Ireland’s Longest River
131km, Hiking Ireland’s Oldest Trail
672km, Cycling Home via Ireland's Most Famous Bike Route
Individually difficult, and when combined in one month they almost broke me. However, it was more spiritually fulfilling than I had anticipated. A personal triathlon, spanning the whole country and stoking memories of all my past adventures. Each phase deeply significant to me and representative of my journey up to now. A closing of chapters, and a fitting farewell to the places and hobbies that were my life. An odyssey both beautiful and terrifying.
This is a writeup of Phase 2: The Wicklow Way
J.B. Malone
Best place to start is the cartographer and draughtsman; J.B. Malone. Since the 1940's he wrote several books, a weekly newspaper column and made multiple documentaries that popularised hiking in Wicklow. Always encouraging young people to get outside, he pushed for years to establish a long distance trail network in Ireland. Much like the Appalachian Trail in the US.
As head of the National Trails Committee, he negotiated rights of way with land-owners to make The Wicklow Way a reality. Opened in 1977, it was a historic first for the country. A memorial to J. B. Malone, who died in 1989, was erected on the Wicklow Way near Lough Tay. The now 42 national waymarked trails, including the Kerry Way and Dingle Way, are directly attributable to this one man.
The Wicklow Way
A 131km long-distance trail that crosses the Wicklow Mountains. It runs from Marlay Park in the southern suburbs of Dublin, through County Wicklow, to the village of Clonegal in County Carlow. Proximity to Dublin make it Ireland's busiest long distance trail. Thru-hikers typically take 5-7 days to complete, but shorter section hikes are more common. It is also used by trail runners with the current record standing at 12hrs 11mins.
There are plenty of accommodation options just off trail. Bag shuttle services are available between these, so many hikers just carry day packs. However, wild camping is permitted which simplifies logistics and removes the need for buses or off trail walking. There are also three hiker huts to provide shelter for wild campers.
The Wicklow Mountains are Ireland's longest continuous mountain range. The trail follows forest tracks, mountain paths, boreens and quiet country roads. Mountains, upland lakes and steep-sided glacial valleys make up the terrain of the northern sections, with gentler hills to the south. The 6th century monastic settlement in Glendalough is a highlight, known for it's 30m round tower.
Maps generally divide the route into seven sections. In 2018, Siobhán O'Donovan and I did the final two; 41km from Roundwood to Marlay Park. In hindsight an additional day and section would have been better to include Glendalough, but it was a great experience. Having hiked all over Ireland since, it has always been on my mind to go back and complete it all.
Preparation & Planning
My goal was to complete a north bound thru-hike in five days. There is a shop to resupply on day three, meaning I would have two equal, 2.5 day food carries. I chose distances to meet the first and third of the trails huts. I'd never seen these before and always wanted to sleep in them. Route planning is easy and I packed light as always.
I'd recommend to hike northbound. This saves the best sections for last, provides a more picturesque finish and simplifies transport after. Getting to Clonegal is awkward, but luckily I had a wedding in Carlow during this month. As everyone else headed home, Eoghan Calnan dropped me to the start.
Day 1 - Clonegal to Tinahely (26km)
It was cloudy and warm when I setoff at 10:00am. Clonegal was both tiny and empty, though I did meet some other groups in the first few hours. Five Belgian lads had stopped to cook dinner only 5km from the start, and a Czech couple were having great fun finding their way on paper maps. Both groups doing the full trail and in for a long week with very heavy bags.
The day was characterised by mostly road walking, with stretches of farmland that seemed to be 90% gates. Constantly opening and closing gates, all day. Lots of curious cows as you did so, and unfortunately lots of similarly curious flies. The Wicklow mountains eventually became visible and the views got nicer. There were light rain showers, but it usually felt too hot and humid for the rain jacket.
When I passed the Dying Cow pub, I was ready to setup camp. It looked to be road for a while so I opted for one of the worst 'stealth camping' locations I've ever chosen. It was flat and comfy, with a picnic bench for cooking. On paper it was perfect, but beside a surprisingly busy road. Did the job but I wouldn't pick it again.
Day 2 - Tinahely to Mucklagh Hut (27km)
Within an hour the trail goes off road and passes some amazing camp spots. I'll definitely push on to here if I ever hike it again. Donkeys, horses and some beautiful scenery as the hills ramp up. Crossing a nice river, I took a lunch break and filtered fresh water before facing the steepest hill.
With most of the road walking done, the next sections have a lot of Coillte forest tracks. I met a Norwegian couple who were amazed by our woodlands. They're from Bergen and have hiked all over Europe, yet somehow this blew them away. I guess the grass is always greener!
After a hilly day, I arrived at Mucklagh hut. My legs were wrecked and I was delighted to sit down and cook dinner. I stayed under the shelter, with just the tent inner to keep any bugs away. There was a cold wind into the hut all night so I wasn't a big fan of this. I now think it's better to camp behind the huts, which is also better if others arrive late or are loud. Glad I got to try it though.
Day 3 - Mucklagh Hut to Brushers Gap Hut (36km)
The long day! More forest roads led to some beautiful boardwalk sections. I met tonnes of hikers, none of whom were Irish but all loving it. Mostly older people who were on package tours with fancy hotels and bag shuttles. The day brought lots of hills, rivers, sheep and eventually the official halfway sign!
A tough climb up and over a hill had some of the nicest boardwalks. Coming over the top I got my first glimpse of Glendalough. What followed was the constant waterfalls, lakes and beautiful trails that valley is known for. It really is a highlight of it all. Made clear by the number of tourists everywhere, particularly on the peaks and ridges surrounding the lake, and especially when you reach the round tower. I took some time by the water to enjoy it all, before walking just off trail to the shop in Laragh where I resupplied. And pigged out on way too many sweet things.
My plan was to get this days dinner at Lynham's pub in Laragh. It was a bit earlier than planned but I did just that and was able to charge my phone and powerbank too. Words can't describe how nice this burger was!
On the short hike out of Laragh I saw four deer. Tight trails became beautiful, expansive meadowlands. Before long I was at Brusher's Gap Hut which was better than the last in every way. I had a nice chat with a mother and daughter who were reading the hiker logbook, and a couple who were cycling the full trail. It was a busier and more sociable night with people arriving at all hours, so a good decision to camp in the grass behind, rather than in the hut itself.
Day 4 - Brushers Gap Hut to Glencullen (33km)
Definitely into the best of the trail now, with lots of cool sections. Also sheep everywhere and a nice house that had a drinking water tap for hikers. Soon I was passing Roundwood which meant I was onto the section I'd done previously. Begin the trip down memory lane!
Windy exposed mountains were to follow with tough climbs but rewarding views. I passed the J.B. Malone memorial overlooking Lough Tay. This is often called the Guinness Lake because it was part of Arthur Guinness' estate, where he supposedly imported white sand for the northern shoreline so it resembled a pint.
The wind was getting pretty strong but I still met a lot of people up on the ridgeline. I took a detour from the nice boardwalk to summit Djouce mountain. This is an optional addon which climbs to 725m, definitely worth it but no view up there today.
One section I'd looked forward to was the huge descent to a stream, with an equal ascent on the other side. If you've hiked it you'll know! It was warm by the bridge so I took a lunch break here, as everyone seemed to. The climb out of there was much easier than I remembered, a testament to how much I've done in the five years since.
I had planned to camp around here but pushed on so my final day would be shorter. I rounded the amazing section that overlooks Powerscourt Waterfall, met some really interesting people, and eventually setup camp. Tonight probably had the worst flies and they love my tent, so I ate dinner quickly and watched a movie in bed where they couldn't bother me.
Day 5 - Glencullen to Marlay Park (15km)
The sunrise was amazing, rising over the iconic Great Sugarloaf hill. As I crossed from the Wicklow Mountains into the Dublin Mountains I could see the city lights in the distance. The last section is quite unique, like exposed desert, until tracks bring you down into the city. It's amazing how quickly it goes from open mountain side to busy city roads.
The long descent to the city had great views before crossing under the M50 motorway and into Marlay Park. Normally the park is nice but the disassembly after Longitude Music Festival blocked all trails. An unhelpful security guard even tried to stop me going to the finish point for my photo but he was unsuccessful! Shame they don't make an allowance for such a busy trail. No walking through the stile, but I stood at the finish point none the less.
There's always something strange about being back in civilisation after adventures like these. Switching from the primal needs of a hike, back to the everyday stresses of life. Or in this case the stresses of the Dublin bus service! Eventually I was on the road home, tired and delighted. It had been tougher than I'd anticipated, but once again I'd made it through.
I had gotten a text during the week to confirm that my bike was waiting for me in Derry. In three days time I would face into the final and scariest leg of this adventure. Celebrations would soon blend into preparations, but for now I was taking great pride in what was an amazing hike.
Afterthoughts
This trail is historic for both Ireland and for me. It was my first taste of a national waymarked trail back in 2018, and retracing those steps was memorable to say the least. A chance to reflect on all that's changed in my life, all that's stayed the same, and how much I've grown. In this respect it was everything I'd hoped for and more. Years of my hiking, kayaking, friendships, relationships and adventures have passed through these valleys. This was a nod to them all.
I think five days was a good timeframe, even if it was exceptionally difficult at times. I'm not sure I had fully recovered from the Shannon Paddle, and certainly not from the wedding, but the tough efforts were always rewarded. In terms of food and gear I wouldn't change anything and feel I've dialled in my ultralight setup very well. It was great to see so many others hiking the trail, even if almost none were Irish. Chatting with people both expands my horizons and helps me appreciate what's on my doorstep.
There is a case to be made for this being a 100km trail, with the southern road sections removed. I met a surprising number of tour groups doing just this. I'm glad that I hiked it all, but I can better understand criticisms of the trail now. On newer trails they've gone to great lengths to avoid roads and monotonous forest tracks. The saving grace here however is that the northern sections are spectacular, so if you start from the south then by the end you will not be disappointed.
Another goal complete, but I'm only two thirds of the way through my mission. I know once I'm moving I can get through anything, but for now I'm faced with the same nervous anticipation that I felt on the banks of the Shannon. The end is in sight, only an entire country in the way.
Click here to read Phase 3: Malin to Mizen
More Photos
What I Carried
Lighterpack Gearlist: https://lighterpack.com/r/1z03k7
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