I was asked to write this article for a 2021 UL Kayak Club magazine. It's based on a two week trip I did in 2019 with Nick Bennett & Will Chick.
Like most of you, my memories tell a story of two lives. The second one sometimes difficult for non-kayakers to understand:
One month; I’m studying for final exams, the next I’m in Uganda. Off what felt like an eternity on a Boda-Boda, having paid Tom his 10-cents (400 Shillings) to carry my boat to the river. Heart pounding, trying to choose a line for my first solo run of Babugo. Doubting every decision that got me to that point, but loving the heat and the Bujagali Funsets!
Or one week; I’m sitting in the office, the next I’m lost in a Jurassic Park style Indian jungle. Pulling leaches off my legs, dehydrated, and losing a battle with Delhi belly. Being in awe of, and humbled by the raw power of rapids, seen by less people than Everest’s peak. And making friends for life in the process.
I find that motivation fades and it’s best to jump on opportunities, commit and buy that plane ticket, rather than mark it down for the elusive tomorrow. Luckily, this was my mindset when the opportunity to paddle the Zambezi appeared. In search of warm boating and good stories I jumped in knowing nothing. It’s actually a pretty easy place though, if a little pricey with Victoria Falls being one of the seven natural wonders of the world. I’ll try to include some helpful bits because it deserves a spot on all your bucket lists.
Like Uganda, us Irish don’t need Visa’s because we’re sound, and wrapping a kayak in a bedsheet somehow gets it on as a surfboard. Also, did you know there’s a direct flight from Dublin to Ethiopia? That means in only one day of flying, an overnight in Lusaka, and a 9-hour bus* across the country I was in Livingstone, with all my gear this time.
* Buses aren’t allowed travel after 8:00pm because of the dangerous roads. If you’re not gone super early you run the risk of the driver leaving you stranded until morning, so get up early. In between breakdowns, the bus will eventually stop at a nice kebab shop too.
Once in Jollyboys or one of the hostels, life is really easy! Put your name down at reception for tomorrows SafPar rafting trip, and at 7:00am your bus will arrive. You’re brought to their resort on the waterside for tea/coffee at the raft briefing (your gear and boat can be stored here). Then driven to the river where your boat has been carried down already. So just get down, enjoy, they bring a lunch for you on the rafts, and they’ll be there at the takeout with drinks, a porter for your boat and your bumpy chariot to some unreal food at their pool/bar, before dropping you home. They also have a cameraman every day to get footage and pictures of you. While I was there the price of this was $45 (~€40) per day, including the $10 park fees. Things can be done cheaper if needs be, but for reliable boating, good company, and a ridiculous service this is hard to beat. (Note; rafting is $150 but the company's owner loves kayakers so does it cheap).
So, the river! It’s obviously amazing and words will never say as much as pictures or video can. But I will say the rapids are so good that you’ll forget to look around at the insanity and beauty of the gorge you’re in. The rapids all have names but you usually go by the numbers. The normal rafting day run is from 1 to 21. The best rapids are 1 to 10 which are only done at ‘low’ water, typically August/September as levels drop off, or December when they begin to rise. Hence why this has become the ‘kayaking season’. There is also a two/three-day multiday, that we did in one long day. Just be careful, stick together, don’t stop except above rapids and find out in advance what sections are the most ‘snappy’.
Day to day it’s easy living. Pick your paddle days or days off the night before. When you’re on the water it’s endless wave trains to get your kickflip/wavewheels down, big fluffy holes to practice your tuck and loads of playing to be done on the big waves, defined eddy lines and whirlpools. There’s lines to push you, or lines to have a chill day, and you have to get your new profile picture on the world’s best boof. Rapids are deep with very few rocks and there’s a huge pool after them all. Every hole flushes and the weather should be nice and warm for the most part.
In terms of who should go; the biggest rapids have an easy portage, so if you have a solid roll and are happy on Grade 4 you’ll get on great. Or if you’re nervous; Nyami Nyami is the river God of the Batoka Gorge and wearing a necklace with the symbol grants safe passage on the river. Everyone wears one, maybe that's enough?
No one is too good for the Zambezi because there’s always more to push yourself on. Like doing nine laps of Number 9, or trying the minus rapids. Speaking of which; everyone should at least see these! That is, paddle up above Number 1 to the base of the falls to find the two biggest rapids on the river; Minus 1 & Minus 2. Tourists pay $100+ to get rafted up and see, so make use of your boat and atleast have a look!
You’ll see mostly playboats, being the classic big-water choice for how easily they flush from holes. There’s also more and more slicey boats like RPM’s being brought to unlock even more play waves. You won’t see them much, but even in a creeker the lines will still work, so take whatever you’re comfortable in and it’ll be great. SafPar also have a duo that you could inquire about nicely...
You’ll get back from the river around 2:00pm and have the pool, ping pong table, barbecue and bar at Jollyboys for recovery. Hopefully someone with you knows a bit of yoga too because it's important to take care of the body! For your touristy evenings or days off I would have to recommend:
Go see the national park and the Devils Pool. We went with an illegal after-hours guy which was half the price for ten times the experience (and more money goes to the locals). Instead of a boat to it we had to sneak across the lip, hide in bushes until he got the all clear from his guy, and then swam to the pool for sunset shots. On the way back we got an unplanned chase from an elephant in the dark, but were eventually through a gap in the fence, all seven of us crammed into his getaway drivers little car and no one arrested for trespassing. Do not miss this pool however you get there!
There’s some nice spots for local food, but a great one is Henry’s restaurant. He’s one of the SafPar raft guides and serves a five-course meal based on the foods of the local tribes of Zambia. Aside from being a great chef, he’s a born showman and has stories behind all the foods. Let me know what you think of caterpillars if you go, and you should try and get some crocodile while in the area.
The market is great, just do your haggling as it is touristy. You’ve also got all the usuals of rafting, bungee jumping, zipline over the gorge, booze cruises or helicopter tours if you’re rich/elderly. For animals there’s elephants, monkeys, giraffes, and zebras along the daily drive to the river, but formal safari’s if that's what you’re into. Or above the falls there’s a crocodile safari by inflatable kayak if you’ve just never like those limbs God gave you! Yes, these are as stupid as they sound. Bovu island is nice for a day off and you’ll have to have a night out in Limpo’s and a Zappa for me.
Personally, I had an incredible trip, getting back to the ways of big water, tiny boat. It’s easy living with the flexibility to paddle when it suits you. In a safe place, there’s new ways to push yourself on every rapid and everyday is international kickflip day. You’ll be super fit between the paddling and hikes out as long as you do take care of the body! And remember, people everywhere come here just to see the falls, so the fact that we can explore the world within the 100m deep gorge as no one else can is reason enough to experience it. It’s the adventure of a lifetime your second life is crying out for! Full of all the stories that make your co-workers ask; how the hell is that a holiday?
If any of you are planning a trip out there I’d be happy to help in any way I can. Or if you want to hear about the specifics of rapids or finer details of what I learnt then let me know.
Happy paddling!
Brian
Footnote – Time is Ticking:
Livingstone tourism accounts for one third of Zambia’s economy. Locals have fought dam proposals since the 1990’s. Sadly, permission has been granted to GE (USA) & China Power for the new Batoka dam, exporting all power to South Africa. The dam will be 181m tall and will create a lake backing up all 54km of rapids to within 650m from the foot of Victoria Falls. Construction is scheduled to begin in 2020, with completion in 2026.
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