After 50 days paddling the White Nile I was asked to list any tips I had for some friends headed there right after me. This post is what I wrote, with tonnes of photos added since.
This was a solo trip I did after graduating university. Bujagali village is world famous for kayaking, so I met loads of people there on shorter trips. It's the perfect hub to paddle the best rapids of the Nile. My paddling ability grew massively and I loved getting to show people down for their first runs. The river is most famous for Nile Special, a huge standing wave where the boundaries of freestyle kayaking were developed by the worlds best for years. Beside the wave is a luxury island resort called The Hairy Lemon (named after a pub in Dublin). Staying here and paddling Nile Special morning, noon and night is a kayakers heaven, heading back to Bujagali for full river runs in between. Right on the equator, it's always Summer here and the water is 28degC year round. Life is easy, everything is cheap, the people are great and the kayaking is incredible. This trip changed my life.
Several items are outdated since the completion of the highly controversial Isimba Hydroelectric Plant. The Hairy Lemon island and Nile Special wave are both 30m+ underwater, along with the majority of the rapids. Names, locations and tourism as a whole has changed a lot since, but this stands as a nice reminder for me of great memories, with incredible people in the pearl of Africa.
Hi guys,
I reckon there's some stuff in here that took me a while to figure out so hopefully having it right off the bat will save you some effort and let you get the most out of your trip. Don't waste days, get some river runs in from Bujagali nice and quick, build your comfort, learn the lines and get to know people. Breaking up Nile Special sessions with river runs is a good way of resting while still getting stuff done and long days on Special will need time to recover. Best to stay at the Lemon for 2 to 4 days at a time and stay in Buj doing river runs for the rest in my opinion. I wish I'd been able to come here for six months so making the most of all your time will be important. Any questions on anything here, or if you want to know things like specific lines, or the best people to get help from let me know.
Accommodation
Nile River Explorers (NRE), Bujagali
$7 - Basic Camping
Good spot for arranging trips because of ease of talking to other paddlers, Kayak The Nile (KTN) & NRE rafters. Easy to get transport to and from, close to Jinja.
Usually seems to be the most likely place to find other paddlers, everyone's first stop.
Showers and toilets are good, handy charging places and dodgy but useful Wi-Fi. Bar is usually good craic with new people coming constantly, ramp and zipline are fun.
Lockers with sockets inside them are unreal. No matter where I stayed I always kept stuff in them, usually laptop was always there and going to Lemon I usually left a full locker of all my heaviest stuff I didn't want to carry around.
Mama Flo's, Bujagali
15000 UGS (€3.75) - Indoor Dorm with Breakfast & Dinner Included
5 minute walk from NRE campsite. Nice comfy beds in small indoor dorms. Has power for charging and is really secure, owner is dead sound too. Meet nice people who stay there.
Breakfast of chapattis, nutella, fruit, tea & coffee and huge dinner everyday. Basic food but filling so you save loads by not spending it on the NRE bar food.
Usually will spend all my time in NRE and only go back up for sleeping and eating. I keep all my paddling gear in NRE next to the BBQ pits and keep most of what I need in the day in my NRE locker. I use the showers and brush my teeth in NRE too and no one cares.
Cheapest accommodation I've ever seen and absolutely ridiculously cheap for what you get. Would absolutely advise staying here for a bit if you want to save some money. Getting food from her makes it very hard to waste money in the day and you get to go back to a comfy bed away from the noise of busy NRE. She will be your Mammy for the trip and treats you like part of her family.
The Hairy Lemon
$35 - Camping with all meals
Great place, great food, great staff. When you want to just session Nile Special stay here all you can. Not the easiest for doing full river runs but possible.
Nothing anywhere close, you are pretty limited to what's on the island. In my experience every kayaker I've seen stayed in Bujagali and just did 2 to 4 day trips to the Lemon for Special.
Not advertised but I have heard they will let you stay on their 'Third Island' entirely self catering for $7 if you are strapped for cash. Wouldn't want to miss out on the food to be honest though, it's possibly the highlight of the island. For more info on the third island I'd talk to Robbie.
You get a 15% discount after your second visit, and I stayed for free by doing some barwork.
Village Life
$1 - A Mud Hut to Yourself
Logistically, I had gotten permission to leave the majority of my things with Sam & Abby in the Lemon, then was going to paddle over with what I needed for the hut. The Lemon charge $5 per meal you eat there so handy to paddle over for breakfast, take the towline over to Special right after and bring it back in time for lunch. Then hang around there, either get a dinner with them too or sort it in the village. Fell through and I didn't get to do it but might be a cool experience for some of you. If you want to try it someone in KTN has the number for arranging a hut.
Money
Get used to conversions and get an idea of what things cost so you don't ripped off. As a rough guide just work out in your head with:
€1 = 4000 UGS
$1 = 3500 UGS - (Actually 3600 UGS) or €1=0.89x$1
I'd recommend only using ATM's at the big banks in town (Find the ones with a 10500 UGS service charge). Using ATM's and then paying in cash usually saves you money over paying by card at campsites because of charges too. Also the Lemon doesn't accept card, cash only.
Dollars get you the best exchange rate but here you can only get out Shillings. Bringing Dollars from home is a good idea.
Haggle at all the souvenir shops.
Food
It is absolutely not worth bringing a stove, food can be bought cheaper than it can be made.
NRE Bar is nice but expensive (cheaper than home but pricey by Ugandan standards). Don't miss their two for one burgers on Monday's or two for one beers on Saturday's though.
Bujagali is touristy so prices are higher. In Jinja or other towns street food is a bit less.
The Chapatti man directly outside NRE is really good (Rise Chappatti Company), best Rolex is 5000 UGS. I found the other one to leave things a bit raw, would stick with this guy.
The woman in the small shop just to the right of that man sells Pillau from 6pm onwards for 3000 UGS and she's lovely. Nice samosa's close to here to.
The Nile Star Restaurant in Bujagali is nice (4000 UGS).
Lots of cheap restaurants in Jinja if you want something fancy.
Water in Bujagali village is 2000 UGS for 1.5 Liters (ice cold), don't buy it from the NRE bar.
Loads of small shops around that sell fruit and snacks.
Note:
Try loads of the local street food, well worth it.
The Bujagali bar is great. Eagle is the cheapest and best drink Uganda has, go to the local, get to know the local lads, beat them in pool, really really cool place.
Getting Around
Boda's to Jinja take 20 minutes and cost 5000 UGS. The driver will wait for you and bring you back for the same. Otherwise a local driver will want more, 7000-10000 UGS.
Jinja main street has a touristy side and a local side. Getting dropped by the Jinja Market is the more local end. Getting dropped to 'The Source Cafe' or 'The Deli' will put you right in the touristy area. In general the drivers know best, just tell them what you need and they'll find it. The Market is class and definitely do a bit of exploring, great city.
Paddling Options
This map shows roughly where the get on's and get out's are and what side of the river they're on.
Raft Trips
Going as a guest kayaker on a raft trip is a good option to get out if stuck for people. Technically they need KTN to 'sign off' on your competency but if you talk your way on you now have people who know lines.
NRE Raft Trips (Red Rafts)
$20
Leave NRE at 8:30 am, good breakfast included in town. Brought down the river with some biscuits and pineapple halfway. Seriously good food at the take out and brought home before 6pm.
For me was absolutely worth doing to get to know some of the lads. Nice to know people like Juma and Alex since you'll see them on the river a lot and they're the people who'll help you out with stuff. The drivers, Abas and Henry, have been really good to help me out moving gear at times. One of their guys runs Dutchman all the time and would happily lead you down and they're all sound and hang around NRE at night so nice to know them.
Nalubale Raft Trips (Yellow Rafts)
Usually Free
Small, tight knit but sound and welcoming group.
Leave at 7:30 from Nile River Camp (NRC) next door to NRE, and give food although it's not as good as NRE's.
Personal Trips
Cheapest thing is just get someone here to show you lines and arrange taxi's as needed. If you walk into KTN the first day and ask them you'll know exactly who's around to go boating with. Then, options:
Get a taxi to drop you to Chabebe or Superhole and have them wait for you at Special. This usually costs 100,000 UGS and is the best and cheapest option. (Chabebe is above Overtime).
NRE will drive you back for free if you ask nicely so instead you can get a one way taxi to Chabebe or Superhole (60000 UGS or 70000 UGS respectively). Makes it a long journey though so only really worth it if you're looking for their take out food without paying for breakfast and transport there, just give them $10 or something.
A Superhole Session will cost about 80000 UGS return by taxi.
Not sure if it applies to your bigger group but a Boda to Superhole with a kayak should be 15000 UGS one way or 25000 UGS return. Little more to be picked up at Special but that's an hour on a Boda (two in bad rain) which I wouldn't recommend.
Note the following sections are big flat lakes and so people tend to get on at Superhole primarily:
Chabebe to Overtime
Retrospect to Bobugo
Kula Shaker to Nile Special
The Rapids
Explained:
The underlined rapids are the easiest route down and are generally what the rafts will do (although they walk half of Itanda always and will walk a lot of Overtime if it's high).
Grades are roughly what I'd call them personally just for your own reference. Don't quote me on them!
Outside of Dutchman and Hypoxia everything can be easily done during your trip (maybe not Fairytale unless the level is super low) but you should aim to do all the rest.
Play around with different lines, throw yourself into everything and if it looks surfable go for it, waters warm and rocks are hard to find.
Chabebe is just above Overtime and is the best option to drive to for full personal runs.
It is primarily a park and play river so make use of the good bits:
Dutch Courage (Maybe Give This A Miss)
The Wave on top of Bobugo (I love this)
Superhole
Itanda Hole
Hair of the Dog Wave
Mutt's Nuts
Cartwheel Hole
Virgins Wave
Kula Shaker Wave
Nile Special
Bell Wave
Club Wave
Then there's other fun waves and holes all over so go find them.
Nile Special Sessions
Look at the gauge at the Lemon before going. Very low water you get club wave (unlikely), above that level Special is great, glassy and must be towed on. Really good for tricks. As it gets higher it gets more trashy and surgey. These surges allow you to paddle on without the towline but make it worse for doing tricks.
Very high water it technically doesn't work but Malalu wave downstream does. For sure worth going to. However, I've done it at Malalu levels and eventhough it's big and bouncy, it's an easy paddle on, it's possible to do all the tricks, will teach you lots and is better than sitting around.
On Sunday's and Monday's the river level is lower so you'll probably get a good morning and afternoon session. I've found on other days that mornings are good and it gets too high in the afternoon so make good use of the time after breakfast. Levels tend to drop in evenings giving a higher flow (paddle on level) that greens out because of how it's dropping. If the level is dropping sunset sessions are good.
Martin usually hangs around the wave around 9:30am or 10am to look for paddlers. If he doesn't show up maybe look for him? He's very good at holding the rope (there's more to it than you think) and even if it's paddle on it's better to use it I find. Give about 1000 to 2000 UGS and tell him when to meet you next.
It is an easy job and the other kids can do it if he's not there, just be sure to agree a price before as they sometimes want more and know yourselves how to set it up because they might not know.
Towing On
I got it first try and very consistently after and this is what worked for me:
Fully stop yourself using the rocks before taking the towline. Have no forward momentum.
Take it in your left hand and then grab your paddle so you're paddling with both hands (usually onlyholding the towline with my thumb).
Take right hand side draw strokes that move you straight out and pull you back so you go out the side of the eddy. Big right stroke as you cross the line that ensures you are facing straight.
As long as your boat is straight at this point you're sorted. Left hand off the paddle, holding rope handle only, rope catches (ow), slight bend in your arm helps, edge right and you're on.
Should go without saying but if you flip let go of the rope straight away. It's very trashy.
Medical Considerations
Malaria
Don't forget to take your Malarone ever.
Long pants, sleeves and bug spray would be handy for evenings on the Lemon. There is more to worry about than just Malaria. I didn't bother but I did get a fair few bites so...
Fun Fact: Mosquito's generally don't go far from their home (roughly 30 meters max). If someone close to you get's Malaria, the infected mosquito is probably still around there the whole time. Just something to bear in mind. Also they tend to bite at night so would be smart to get some spray on before getting drunk and dancing half naked all night.
Before going home you should buy these:
Praziquantel - Bilharzia/Schistosomiasis Treatment - 18000 UGS
To be taken 6 to 8 weeks after last day on the water.
Avoid rolling and taking in water in dirty eddies or stagnant water like the Superhole get on regardless.
Albendazole 400 mg - Dewormer - 3000 UGS
Take at home.
RDT Malaria Test Kit - 3000 UGS
Co-Artam (1 Packet) - Malaria Treatment - 12000 UGS
If you start to feel really really shit after you get home you'll be very glad you have it.
If I haven't gotten Malaria by the end of August one of you can just have mine if you'd like.
General Tips
If you ever have any medical questions or needs find Doctor Jessie. She's always happy to help and usually comes to NRE every morning for breakfast, some nights too. She's a very good kayaker as well as the local doctor.
I brought a small sterile needle kit in my bag on and off the river incase I'd any reason to go to hospital. In hindsight I'm not sure if this was necessary, but it's still unopened if any of you want it.
Drink plenty of water and don't forget to bring plenty of Dioralytes.
Fucibet was handy for bites and Piriton is probably worth having too.
Imodium (only if really needed) and Motilium are handy. I got very sick for about a week, I reckon it was the Malarone, Motilium was very useful.
NRE is the best place for sick days if you somehow have the option. Always close to a bathroom, comfy couches with chargers so you can watch movies all day, Wi-Fi most of the time, cold bottles of water close, nice food when you feel like eating, Doctor Jessie showing up all the time and being close to pharmacies and other doctors too. Being sick on the Lemon would be shit, bathrooms are far away, no power for a laptop or Wi-Fi, set meal times and the constant feeling that spending days or a week there doing nothing is a huge waste of money.
Fun Fact: Malarone is a fairly new, purpose made Malaria drug and costs way more than its competitors because it cut down on the usual side effects (by combining two separate drugs). Doxy is about one tenth of the price because it's just a broad spectrum anibiotic with multiple uses (including treating Chlamydia) so if you can put up with getting terribly sunburnt and having more crazy dreams it could be good. Larium is the dirt cheap one they give the military that gives you really trippy dreams, it sounds like it's worth trying in life, but not for months on end. There's a dodgy local one that's illegal at home too that costs €17 for 5000 tablets, crazy stuff.
Random Stuff
Early Days
You don't need an entry visa if you’re Irish. They were a little confused at first but eventually moved me to the VIP queue where you just walk through for free.
Pineapple Express runs from the airport to NRE for $24. Ideal for me on my own, but with a big group a taxi may be better.
Don't bring too much unnecessary crap, you'll move around a bit.
A good dry bag like a watershed makes life easier.
Spend a few days in Bujagali and get to know other paddlers and the river before going to the Lemon.
Paddling
Make sure your deck isn't going to implode somewhere undesirable. I use an overthruster always.
Would recommend taking off Rocker visors, high water Kalagala did it for me.
Don't forget a sponge, waterproof suncream or roofrack straps, I wouldn't always trust the locals twine.
You won't need a cag, shorty at most. Long sleeve rashy would be the ideal.
Get familiar with big water technique early:
Lean onto oncoming waves to avoid backloops.
Avoid spinning out on eddylines, using rudders if needed to do this.
Build speed facing downstream before eddying out even if it means you'll go lower than hoped. You may need the speed for the eddy line.
When you're in a hole, big exaggerated edges are what make you bounce around, having small controlled edges work better. The same applies in boils. Nice, calm, loose edges give very little for the water to catch, useful to remember above Kalagala.
Sundays and Monday's tend to be lower levels because Ugandan industry closes. Not necessarily low, but definitely lower every week. Usually good for trying things like Itanda, Novacaine or other lines. Never skip a Sunday, they're the lowest/best.
Do Kalagala the first day and know it is easily portaged if needed.
The kids at Kalagala are little shits. Keep all your gear with you when scouting/filming it.
Ask someone who knows what the level is every day you can and get an idea of what different levels look like as quick as you can (judge off Superhole usually). But remember lines don't change.
It's easy to do the second half of Itanda only if you want to try that first. Know the Itanda line very well before you do it. Get close to pencil sharpener, ferry hard to clear Cuban, push left to stay on the edge of Cuban and Ashtray to miss the Bad Place curler and then head right.
Don't overthink Itanda too much, it's grand. If you're heading for Cuban aim to surf it not punch it.
Throw yourself into the Bad Place intentionally (with a camera rolling).
Overtime is as easy as it looks and low water creek line of Dutchman is completely doable.
I wouldn't leave valuables in a taxi. Leave your change of clothes, then take important stuff on the river (just a key if you've left stuff in the NRE locker).
If you break a boat and need a repair done find Abram in the KTN office. He's always there.
General
Buy a jazzy shirt.
Don't forget sunglasses for Boda rides, very dusty. I avoid light coloured clothes on them usually as they won't be that when you get off.
A lot of boda drivers will loan you the boda for your trip at the same rate as having him drive which might interest you. Some taxi drivers will do the same although I didn't like the idea of being stuck in the middle of nowhere with the exhaust after falling off. The roads, and cars, are bad.
Always agree boda prices before going and don't be afraid to haggle.
Make sure to look at Hypoxia, Dutchman and swim down Special for the craic.
At Superhole kids will want to carry your boat, always bring 500 shilling coins with you to the river. I like Tom, tell him I said hi.
If you become friends with some of the KTN lads, paddling with them is pretty much free coaching.
The ramp at NRE put a hole in my boat, don't do it too much, and turn on the water full whack if you are. Also, James Smith broke his back on it so lean forward on landings.
In town a very high quality tailored suit can be made for €50. Also they will make anything you want out of anything you want, stupid clothes, boat bags, use your imagination. Lots of jazzy fabrics to choose from.
NRE Wi-Fi works best at off peak times, e.g. nights and weekdays after breakfast ends. Places in town have good free Wi-Fi but on weekends gets slow from the amount of people there. NRC and The Black Lantern in Bujagali have Wi-Fi and good food too.
NRC have a swimming pool and I was never given out to for using it.
Eat loads of Rolex's, samosa's and have a Churburger.
Do a Bujagali Funrise, drink your weight in Zappa and Eagle and have a Champion (Ask Robbie).
Lemon Tips
Screw taxi's. To go to the Lemon get permission from NRE to put your bags on their raft truck at 8:30am. Be 15 minutes early with everything packed up and make sure the driver knows to get these on a truck that will be at the take out. Paddle down in your own time directly to the Lemon, leave your boats on the island and walk to the raft takeout to get your bags (they finish usually between 3:30pm & 4pm). For the way back have Abby or Sam call NRE the night before you leave and arrange for space to be left for you on the return truck. Paddle to the takeout before they finish, leaving your packed up boats. Then walk back to the Lemon for your other gear. Job done and dirt cheap (free) travelling.
I leave everything heavy I don't need in an NRE locker or Mama Flo's rather than carrying it to and from the island.
Don't give bugs a chance to get into your tent on the island.
Hang up gear that needs to be dried. Put everything else in the boat with the deck on and I sometimes tied the tunnel shut with something, saves you removing bugs and geckos the next day.
Be sure to talk to Abby and Sam, they're really sound. Play Frisbee Golf (my best is 25, beat that), find the highest point on the third island, play viking chess and Catan and use the jacuzzi handle.
Charging is dodgy at best. Wouldn't bother with a laptop there and a power bank would be handy.
Weekends are really busy. Peace and tranquillity can only be found on the weekdays.
Said it already but: make use of the time right after breakfast. Levels tends to be lower and raise during the day so get out early and make use of the prime time.
If you ever have any questions about anything like calling taxis, prices, levels, lines, help with tricks or absolutely anything at all talk to someone in KTN. Robbie is usually there and he's probably the most helpful person I've met here. If not him then Megan, Sam, Scotty, Alan, Craig or any of them will be able to help. Abby and Sam in the lemon are great too and can answer any questions you have. At NRE it's easy to get to know people so make as many connections as you can while there and it'll stand to you.
You're gonna be driven crazy by the bad Wi-Fi but if ye need anything give me a shout and I'll answer right away and help any way I can. Make the most of your time here, make sure you're always paddling, always tired and always learning.
Have an unreal trip,
Brian x
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