This is a writeup of my two month backpacking trip through Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam & Cambodia, following the Banana Pancake Trail. I hadn't anticipated how different each country would be in terms of people, food, scenery, climate and reception to tourism. Everyday I got to learn about the complex histories, landscapes, traditions and social influences that led to such unique cultures. I was immersed in local flavours, loud cities and new customs which took time to change from a chaotic novelty, to a familiar way of life.
I should include that the trip didn't always suit me. Many areas have a party culture that made me miss the quiet mountains of Ireland or New Zealand. This was usually balanced out by the food, fun activities and friendly locals that eventually left me with no regrets. I'm grateful for all the wonderful people I met, and for all I was lucky enough to learn about and experience. Below are my memories of these vibrant places, seen through a lens of naïve curiosity, on a trip that in hindsight was perfect for me.
Banana Pancake Trail
The food, culture and low costs of South East Asia make it the world's most popular backpacking destination. Hippies popularised a not-so-specific route in the 1960's which gained its name from the western food still found along it. The trail includes tourist hubs in Thailand, Laos, Vietnam & Cambodia, with longer trips adding Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Philippines or Myanmar. The exact stops have changed throughout the years, but affordability still draws people from around the world.
Trips can be tailored to the destinations that appeal to you, trading party islands for remote jungles. I wanted to see it all, even the things that border on cliché, so I chose a route which visited all the main tourist hubs of six countries, for now. A loop which could take a lifetime to see entirely, and which I'll likely visit again, but that I'm happy in how I experienced. It was enough to hugely enhance my understanding of South East Asia and backpacking culture as a whole. My route from Singapore is marked below:
Singapore
A tiny, wealthy & expensive country where several colonisers left a mismatch of cultures. The once segregated ethnic neighbourhoods are interesting to explore, like Arab Street, China Town, Little India or the Jewish Quarter. The city is expanding into the ocean, so the once oceanfront properties of Beach Road are now surrounded by skyscrapers. I loved walking under Supertree Grove in the Gardens by the Bay, looking up at the Marina Bay Sands Hotel and seeing all the strange graffiti of the city. I also walked around Jewel; the world's tallest indoor waterfall, and spent a half-day on the rollercoasters at Universal Studios.
Given the high costs, I mostly ate in local hawker markets (street food centres). Some tiny stalls have Michelin stars, but most people just want kopi (coffee) and the addictively sweet kaya toast. I also loved thosai's; an Indian pancake served with curry dip. On a cycling tour, our guide Wadi explained the strict laws like €500 fines for spitting or chewing gum, the death penalty for drug use or murder, and years of flogging for anything in between. As a result this is the world's safest country, with bikes and doors rarely locked. Locals claim market tables by leaving valuables on them with no fear of theft. It's a fascinating place to explore, from old opium dens to modern skyscrapers. If only accommodation didn't cost so much!
Malaysia
Kuala Lumpur
After long border queues and a bus breakdown, I finally arrived in the busy capital of Malaysia. I bought a cheap local sim, a yoghurt coffee (weird), some nice street food and started exploring. The Islamic faith is obvious in architecture, mosques, burka's and the call to prayer. Also a strange German influence to buildings in the centre. I enjoyed the botanical garden and the national independence monument in particular. The hostel was chilled out and had a nice pool. It ended up being a perfect place to meet similar people like Madeleine & Robbie.
I did a driving tour with Kadir who was my age and told me all about local life. We visited the main mosques, the Chinese Thean Hou Temple and the markets. Batu Cave is an obvious highlight, where a temple is carved into cliffs high above the city. After running between rainstorms we ended in Little India with Kadir's favourite restaurant and ate from banana leaf plates. He introduced me to Milo, a chocolate milk often served hot but with ice. This is Malaysia's most popular drink due to Nestlé's strategy of addicting kids at school age and convincing people of health benefits. They successfully addicted me too.
Cameron Highlands
I stayed in Tanah Rata, the main town of Malaysia's remote highlands. Known for secluded hikes that were now muddy slip and slides due to the northeast monsoon. I did a day trip to a tea plantation with interesting colonial history, then a guided jungle hike to learn about poisonous plants. I explored the town with new friends Sam & Bernhard, and the three of us won the hostels pub quiz with a prize of free beers. The losers had to eat durian which is the world's smelliest fruit, and is illegal in some countries. One small piece made me sick for hours, but locals love it.
I had plenty of Malaysian food, but struggled to stay away from the curries, murtabak's and thosai's of the Indian restaurants. Between rainstorms I explored the area and its parks which were exceptionally wet! Most hikes were closed but a group of us did Track 10 up Gunung Jasar; at 1,696m. The summit was worth all the ropes and mud to get up, and the descent passed local villages to reach a nice waterfall before hitchhiking back with Sam. The hostel was strict on not bringing mud in and it's clear why. It took weeks to get my shoes and clothes fully clean again.
Penang
Penang is a tropical island known for its weather, beaches, forests and food. I took the ferry to Georgetown and stayed there. This is an old colonial port and UNESCO heritage site which was a perfect base to explore and fill up on samosas, bhaji's, nasi goreng, satay skewers and all sorts of banana desserts. A highlight was getting the bus to Kek Lok Si, the largest Buddhist temple in South East Asia which needs cable cars to get between its levels. Georgetown came to life at night and I ran into a few people I knew from Kuala Lumpur.
One of the days I hiked 20km to the islands highpoint on Penang Hill, through farmland, bamboo forests and gardens of monkeys. The summit has a wildlife park and giant tower that I loved. Another day I had an island tour from Ranjit; driving to the tropical spice garden, more temples and Entopia; a massive open air butterfly museum that housed the biggest (and scariest) bugs I've ever seen. I stood on top of the islands tallest building, walked around the floating village (built to avoid the land area based tax), ate at hawker markets and saw the graffiti which made the city famous. Lots of street food and coconut ice cream topped off Penang as a memorable stop!
Thailand
Koh Phi Phi & Krabi
Koh Phi Phi is a group of six islands, accessed from Krabi or Phuket, and home to 3,000 people. Known for coral reefs, limestone cliffs and Maya Bay; where The Beach was filmed. I got to four of the islands; walking pristine beaches, jumping off the boat, snorkelling and having monkeys steal our lunch. The steep rocks are so iconic, particularly at sunrise. I liked the main island of Phi Phi Don, and particularly one all you can eat buffet. Maya Bay was nice too. You can't swim due to an endangered dolphin so the lifeguards whistle constantly as people try. While taking the classic photo I saw the tiny dolphin swim right by my feet.
I chose Krabi based on cheap transport, but it ended up being my favourite stop in Thailand. So much good food, especially massaman and panang curries. Beside a giant crab statue is the night market with amazing roti's, ice cream, banana shakes and cream cheese coffee (also weird). I went ziplining and rafting with ridiculously skilled guides and it was so nice to get out on whitewater. I loved my hostel and met some nice people there like Hugo the brain surgeon. The breakfasts were great, and the ocean view from the window was nice. Even with the hundreds of coiled up cables that are part of most window views in Thailand, often called black noodles!
Koh Samui & Koh Phangan
Three islands dominate the tourism of south east Thailand. Koh Samui is the largest where I stayed in a great hostel with Tony & Nate. I explored the giant buddha at Wat Phra Yai, the cool islands of Wat Plai Laem and all the sculptures in between. I did a long walk to Thongson Beach, then chilled out as I suffered through my first sickness of the trip! The highlights were food and sunsets over the mountains, before heading onto the second biggest island; Koh Phangan. Here I stayed in a quiet hostel that had it's own beach and was conveniently close to nice markets and restaurants.
One of the days on Koh Phangan I did a boat trip to a nearby national park called Koh Angthong. The journey was choppy and didn't help my stomach, but was so cool to explore. Steps up and around the islands revealed huge lakes and insanely picturesque views, which were all rewarded by time to swim, snorkel and play on the slides & diving boards of the boat. Back on Koh Phangan I enjoyed great food, swims and sunsets. I had the hottest thai green curry I'd ever tasted at a restaurant named No Name that I went to with Kayleigh. Then nice spring rolls, gyoza's, cinnamon rolls, banana shakes & ice cream by the beach. The islands were a beautiful place to relax and recover.
Bangkok
The chaos of Bangkok is amazing to see. Khao San Road (the famous party street) is the loudest place I've ever been. I spent most of my time exploring the main temples like Wat Arun & Talat Noi. On a tour with Che I went to the Royal Palace and saw enough to be all templed out! I love how they use 5 cent ferries in place of bridges across the city, and I had great fun exploring the toy markets and buying clothes in Bobae Market. It was nice to see the main tourist attractions like the giant swing, the Emerald Buddha and the Lying Buddha.
Generally I found the city exceptionally hot and humid so I did a full day at Siam Park, which is full of rollercoasters and waterslides. It was pretty quiet so I had a great day with no queues, especially on the main rollercoaster and the log flume. I think the biggest water slide was as scary as a bungee jump because of how it almost bounces you off, but a perfect way to avoid the heat. Back in the city I had amazing thai red curries, pad thai's and Nutella roti's. Bangkok is the busiest and most overwhelming place I'd been so far, but I grew to like the energy and food of what is a very friendly and welcoming city.
Chiang Mai & Chiang Rai
Chiang Mai is Thailand's second biggest city, and was once the capital of an ancient country named Lana. It was my longest stay where I treated myself to a €10 hotel and loads of time to explore the markets and temples, getting around in local sangthaew's (pick-up truck buses). Food remains central to the culture and I had amazing Indian and Thai dinners with Beth, as well as huge breakfasts of French toast, fruit, yoghurt and muesli. Also ice cream coffees (now we're getting somewhere). Getting my clothes washed and dried cost €2, and everything remained crazy cheap, even in a city with a Decathlon! I topped off my stay by running the Chiang Mai Marathon, which was a whole adventure in itself. Starting from Tha Phae Gate, running around the walls and moat of the historic centre, then out through the expanding suburbs.
Chiang Rai is the most northerly city in Thailand, right on the border with China. I visited the Blue Temple, ate black ice cream at the Black Temple (which is like the inside of a serial killers mind), and was blown away by the mirror surfaces of the White Temple. The gleaming white bridge crosses a sea of human hands that represent desire trying to pull you down to hell, and the tiny details took so long to explore. Another day I went to Doi Inthanon National Park to stand on Thailand's highest point, wander the forests, explore the temple, hike to Wachirathan Waterfall and see the local coffee making process. Of course all topped off with great food. This time bao's, roti's, coconut ice cream, an amazing curry soup and another panang curry.
Laos
Luang Prabang
I loved Laos. All the friendliness of Thailand, with less crowds and even cheaper prices. €50 made me a millionaire in Kip; the local currency, and my new hostel had free coffee, free bananas and a pool by the river. Luang Prabang was once the country's capital, now known for tourism, Buddhist temples and strange architecture. It's UNESCO status limits build height so the only three story building is known as the skyscraper. The market is amazing, especially at night, with unique local craft and as usual; great food! Pork noodles, pumpkin soup, cream buns, banana chips and coconut pancakes. I loved the river walk and the sunset from the top of Phousi Hill in particular.
Bamboo bridges are beautifully lit up at night across the Mekong river. I did a boat trip to explore the Buddha's of Pak Ou Caves, see rock climbers on huge cliffs and feed elephants at a sanctuary. I visited an indigenous Hmong village, learning about their culture and firing crossbows with them, then drove up the valley for a swim under Kuang Si Waterfall. There are two traditional Laos restaurants that I was told I can't miss, so I had dinner at Bamboo and did a cookery class with market tour at Tamarind. I fell in love with sticky rice, chicken larb (chopped salad), the local beer and their purple rice desserts. The cookery class was the highlight, learning about the local spices and how they rely on a pestle & mortar, open fire and banana leaves to bring out the flavours. It builds a great appreciation for the food, and you become an expert on rice!
Vang Vieng
A mountainous adventure hub that's conveniently located on Laos' only trainline, which by the way is bizarrely fancy and built by China to connect to the capital. The town is best known for tubing from bar to bar on the Nam Song River, infamously banned due to frequent deaths but back and safer now. The water levels were low so I did this by kayak instead, with two Korean lads and a local named Pip who lost his crocs while surfing a wave. I also tubed through Tham None Cave, walked through Angel Cave and played at the zipline park which was so much fun. I drove to the Blue Lagoon one afternoon too for swimming and uncomfortably high jumps.
Vang Vieng's other claim to fame is having the cheapest hot air balloon rides in the world. A sunrise flight cost me €80 and was amazing. They're way bigger than I realised, so even watching them inflate is surreal. The roar from the burners, views of other balloons, and the sunrise over the mountains was truly unforgettable. I was here for Christmas so there were loud parties, fireworks and free drinks each night. A thai green curry and coconut ice cream didn't feel very festive, but I found a quiet corner to call home and did plenty of what I've come to love; exploring the markets and trying all the cheap food. I even treated myself to a €1 haircut.
Vientiane
The busy capital of Laos; full of fountains, temples, night markets and a carnival by the river. My hostel was great, aside from the questionable pork rice porridge for breakfast. Around the city I kept finding amazing Indian restaurants so dinners were samosa's, butter chicken, vindaloo, potato naan's, mango lassi, waffles and of course banana pancakes. I did a long day exploring Buddhist temples like Pha That Luang, Patuxay Gate and my favourite; That Dam Stupa Pagoda; built 450 years ago and inhabited by ancient wartime spirits. Also, what an amazing name!
I really enjoyed the textile museum where you learn about silk worm farming, weaving threads and creating linen from handmade mills. The museum includes traditional clothing of Hmong tribes, with explanations for the designs and patterns. My favourite place in Vientiane was Buddha Park which has hundreds of statues and is well worth the bus journey to it. One sculpture represents Hell, Earth & Heaven with tight passages and ladders for you to climb up through each level. It's one of the craziest things I've seen, and I met an Irish couple from Leitrim in Hell. The park also had an amazing chicken larb, topping off this visit to Laos with my favourite of their meals. Plus a banana split for good measure.
Vietnam
Hanoi
Vientiane to Hanoi is either a €150 flight, or a €20 bus. The only catch is this bus takes 24hrs, or in our case 36hrs. Bribes, confusion and confiscated blankets made for a less than ideal welcome after a suitcase of heroin was found onboard. In hindsight an entertaining bonding experience, but in the moment we were pretty cold and hungry. Eventually though, we arrived into Vietnam's chilly capital, just in time for New Years. The hostel was brilliant, especially the owner; Hung. I met a group of Australians over free drinks, then headed into the concerts in town to watch the countdown and drone show over the lit up lake. Unfortunately no fireworks, but Happy New Year nonetheless!
I did a walking tour of the city, getting to see the different areas and temples. There's some huge churches and parks, some with Lenin statues and relics of communism. I visited Uncle Ho at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, then wandered the markets and tight stalls of places like book street and train street. I ate loads of banh mi, seeing how French colonisers left a fondness for these filled baguettes and other baked goods. I also loved the local egg coffee and a dessert called caramen. The most standout thing was Hòa Lò Prison, known as the Hanoi Hilton where American prisoners were kept during the Vietnam War. The bombings and destruction paint a very different story than that of western media, in many ways explaining the slight apprehension I sensed towards tourism in Vietnam. Especially compared to Thailand; one of the few countries to never be invaded or colonised.
Sa Pa & Fansipan
The mountains of North Vietnam are known for remote farms and terraced rice fields. At the head of one deep valley is the market town of Sa Pa, where indigenous tribes have come to sell rice and local craft for centuries. Joined by friends from the Hanoi heroin bus, I did a hike through rice paddies which were muddy and waterlogged due to rainy season. I would have slipped multiple times if not for Shu, the Hmong lady who helped us and gifted me a dog made of reeds. We stopped to see the changing views, tour a local home, try out hand made machines, have a nice lunch and eventually reached our homestay. The friendly hosts shared stories, chicken curry and happy water (whiskey) with us, while being entertained by our inability to pronounce their sons name well enough to get a response. We all played cards and drank Bailey's hot chocolate in a local pub that night, trying to warm up!
Fansipan is Vietnam's highest peak at 3,143m. It should be a fun 20km trail run along forest tracks, but locals see it as certain death to go without a €120 guide. I motorbiked out and tried my best to sweet talk the guards, but it was a resounding no. So instead I took the cable car up and it was amazing. The summit is way above the clouds, with huge steps and structures to explore. I loved the giant buddha and sat for hours enjoying the view with bao's, sausages and egg hot chocolate. It's actually incredible up there. Back in town I ate lots of phò, explored the markets and shopped for knock off Patagonia, Fjallraven & North Face gear which I'm convinced must be real (they are all made in Vietnam). I really enjoyed Sa Pa, but was excited to head south and feel warm again.
Hạ Long Bay
Vietnam's most popular attraction is these 1,600 jagged limestone islands in the Gulf of Tonkin. Typically explored from luxurious overnight boats, which I did with Bryce, William and a French family. The views are amazing, with the scale hard to grasp until up close. I spent a lot of time on the sun loungers, trying to take in the full panorama, especially during sunset and sunrise. In the evening we tried squid fishing, and ate what was caught with dinner. We also did a basic cooking class and some drunken karaoke. Rainy season brought a few showers, but also amazingly small crowds. Our part of the bay was otherwise silent and empty.
The tour included stops on beaches to explore both by foot and by kayak. One of the strangest things about Ha Long Bay is that many islands are hollow. Local fisherman find cave entrances by accident and we spent an hour walking through the largest found to date; Sung Sot Cave. My favourite stop was Ti Top Island, named after Russian cosmonaut Gherman Titov who visited in 1962. Steps from his statue to the summit make you realise just how tall and steep these islands are, and of course had a great view. After a final lunch and some passion fruit juice we completed our loop and returned to the mainland.
Ninh Bình
This ancient capital is now a UNESCO heritage site that's full of history. Very popular with Vietnamese families who know it as the Ha Long Bay of the land. I cycled around rural country roads to see the limestone mountains, cliffs and caves that surround the wetlands. I then got a tour of the Hoa Lu temples where kings lived 1,000 years ago. Our guide Alex taught us about the Dinh & Le dynasties, their ancient battles against the Chinese, and the prayers & incense of the visiting locals. It was on this tour I met Alwyn; a 70 year old, retired UN representative from New Zealand who's been solo travelling and is headed to Japan next on a farm workaway.
The Ngo Dong River flows through the town and is famous for it's three caves; known as Tam Coc. Traditional sampan boats are rowed using feet instead of hands to protect the spine, which is ridiculously impressive up close. I did the boat trip with Laura and was amazed by the increasingly unspoiled landscape beyond each cave. This is very touristy, but a must see. After a traditional Vietnamese lunch we drove to Mua Cave, and climbed mountain steps to my favourite place in Ninh Binh; Hang Mua Peak. A giant stone dragon is built into the ridge line to watch over the valley and climbing out to the end gave me a spot all to myself. I loved the views from the summit temple, and watched the sun setting over rice paddies from a swing set below.
Hội An
A well preserved port town with lots to explore between its canals and colonial buildings. Hundreds of floating lanterns made this night market one of my favourite places in Vietnam. The most common food was soft spring rolls and Vietnamese pizza, which use a crunchy rice paper base. There's also lots of pancakes, ice cream rolls and exceptionally cold ice cream balls that make you breath fog. I loved this town, and my hostel was great; particularly for its huge breakfasts.
Hoi An is best known for the coracle style round bamboo boats. I did a trip up the river with Su, got spun so fast that my legs hurt, and saw locals fish for crabs. I did a market tour and cooking class with some fun people from Germany, Australia & New Zealand, learning that the rice paper is deceptively delicate and hard to handle. I did a tour with Lee to nearby Da Nang, and explored the buddha's and hills of the Marble Mountains (really cool). Then did a final day trip with Jake (and a group from Cork) to Ba Na Hills; the strange theme park on a mountain with no rides or attractions. It's like a deserted Disney Land, but people only come for one thing; the famous Golden Hand bridge. Not much of a view today, but I had wanted to see this for years and had it almost all to myself.
Ho Chi Minh
Also known as Saigon, this is the most populated city in Vietnam. The weather was nicer, back to the four seasons we know rather than the two they use up north; rainy and dry. My hostel cost €3 and wasn't bad. I liked the city, exploring pub street, the Ho Chi Minh statue, the post office, opera house, Notre Dame and the pink church. The War Remnants Museum has to be visited, but the cages and Agent Orange exhibition were of the most upsetting things I've ever seen. I found a park after to cheer up and met a man who taught me the local sport of foot badminton. He was surprised I could do it, but strangely enough I have one at home. Ho Chi Minh is often called the city of motorbikes, and some of my most vivid memories are just crossing the busy roads!
On a day trip with Ben, we went to the Cu Chi Tunnels which are a must. I hadn't realised how deep and elaborate the tunnels are, and you get to crawl through some as they would have during the Vietnam War. The sounds from a firing range nearby and demonstrations of traps add to the feel. I did a brief visit to the Mekong Delta, seeing the outlet of the river which had followed my journey since Chiang Mai. A nice lunch, coconut cookies, snake soaked happy water, plus tours of islands and farms before heading back for dinner with Olivia; an Irish girl I met that day. The highlight of Ho Chi Minh was a street food tour with Qui, trying local hu mieu (two bowl noodles), street kebabs, banana rice, avocado ice cream and sugarcane juice. I was joined by two pilots Doug & Yoki who had cool stories from flying for the Air Force and different airlines. It was an amazing night learning about how food culture differs throughout Vietnam.
The Impact of War
So far I've focussed on present realities rather than tragic pasts, but some history is needed to understand modern Cambodia. This entire region was destroyed by the proxy battles and escalation from world superpowers during the Vietnam War. The neighbouring communist countries of Laos & Cambodia were seen as a threat, so the US ran covert attacks to ensure they couldn't aid North Vietnam. Particularly via the destruction of possible supply routes.
Although they never fought in the Vietnam War; Laos remains the most bombed country in history. There were 270 Million cluster bombs dropped on them by the US over 9 years, which averages one every 8 minutes. 98% of casualties were civilian and people still die everyday from the 30% that are unexploded. The US remains the biggest user of cluster bombs and refuses to sign their ban, having used them on sixteen countries, seconded by Russia who've used them on four. Similar to Vietnam's difficulty in getting US accountability for the Agent Orange aftermath, Laos has been unable to get US aid in their clean up. Every market in Laos sells local craft made from the metal of decommissioned bombs.
Similarly Cambodia was covered in anti personnel landmines, with 4 to 6 Million unexploded and unaccounted for. Fifty years after the war, there's still three deaths per day, usually of kids who think they're toys. I visited the landmine museum of Aki Ra, who has personally defused 50,000 and campaigns for the US to agree to their ban. He runs a heart-breaking school for people with missing limbs, which is a sad sight that's far too common around the country.
Importantly, in 1970 the US funded a military coup to overthrow Cambodia's leader Norodom Sihamoni. They propped up a new capitalist government led by Lon Nol, who ordered the country into the Vietnam War to fight alongside the US. This prompted bloody battles between the new puppet government and a disenfranchised guerrilla communist army; the Khmer Rouge. When the US withdrew troops from Vietnam in 1973, they stopped aiding this new government. The Khmer Rouge quickly gained power of Cambodia, but now under the rule of the revolutionary turned dictator; Pol Pot.
Pol Pot envisioned an agrarian socialist society. He sealed the borders, seized all land, emptied the cities and forced everyone to work in state run farms under a new country name; Kampuchea. All minorities or opposers were executed, and their families & friends imprisoned. This escalated to a horrific prison state, where child soldiers were instructed to kill truck loads of prisoners by blunt force trauma to save on bullets. The brutality of his four year reign is known as the Cambodian Genocide, where one quarter of the population were killed. This was over two million murders, with very few surviving without some torture or abuse.
During the same four years; Vietnam was unified as a single communist state now that foreign powers no longer intervened in their affairs. Vietnam's new government led an army to oppose the neighbouring atrocities, and in 1979 took the capital to liberate Cambodia. Pol Pot was exiled and a democracy reinstated, which eventually led to the re-election of Norodom Sihamoni and the communist parliament that exists today. Pol Pot never expressed any remorse and before his death in 1998 said; "I want you to know that everything I did, I did for my country".
I feel it was important to explain this dark past because Cambodia is a country in recovery. A young democracy known for ancient wealth and modern poverty, that lost everything through one mans paranoia and skewed vision of "the greater good". I found that scams and high tourist prices were often exhausting, but like to think their based on opportunism rather than malice. This is the poorest country I visited and although beautiful, the scars of this not so distant trauma are still visible.
Cambodia
Phnom Penh
In 1434, Cambodia moved it's capital from Angkor Wat (Temple City) to a convenient confluence of rivers at Phnom Penh. This remains a busy capital, known for ancient temples and palaces. I learned a lot from what was said and unsaid at the two most chilling places in the city; the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21 Prison) and the Choeung Ek Killing Fields. But I'm going to leave the sad history behind from here on.
My favourite place in Phnom Penh was the night market. They had free concerts and hundreds of mats to sit and eat on. I had nice food here like a caramel cheesecake and coconut ice cream, served in a coconut, with coconut shavings and a glass of coconut water. They like coconuts. I ate in multiple Indian restaurants and bakeries while exploring the city, and found fun local markets that sold everything you can imagine. I spent the rest of my time around the hostels swimming pool with likeminded people, enjoying the cheap drinks and a great view of the starry sky.
Siem Reap
Siem Reap is the gateway to Angkor Wat, making it the countries capital of tourism. I loved Pharé Circus which helps local kids, holds world records and makes a great evening with their food, drinks and pre-shows beforehand. I did a market tour and cookery class with Coco and some New Zealanders, making spring rolls and a khmer curry with kumara. Then explored the night markets by the river which had nice curries, banh mi, waffles, ice cream, cocktails, passion fruit shakes and overly cheap biscuits. Finally lazing by the pool at my hostel, and at the nice restaurants nearby.
I did a day trip to the holy mountain of Phnom Kulen, joined by Jack & Casey. Huge cliffs overlook unspoiled rainforests where the first temples of Angkor were found. It also holds the quarries where every stone for the temples originated (more than in the pyramids), with no explanation for how they were moved over 60km. We swam under Kulen Waterfall, drank palm sugar wine, watched monks singing in temples and saw the 1000 linga's of the Kbal Spean River. These are temple shaped carvings in the riverbed thought to bless the cities water supply. Another day trip was to the floating village of Kampong Phluk with Saron; where we had a jungle boat trip to crocodile farms, and the most amazing sunset over Tonlé Sap Lake.
Angkor Wat
The Angkor area contains 1,000 Hindu-Buddhist temples of various sizes. The largest is Angkor Wat itself, which is the worlds largest religious structure. It's four times bigger than the Vatican, has a construction shrouded in mystery and is South East Asia's most famous tourist site. Two loops from Siem Reap are the best way to visit the twenty main temples. I drove both loops in one very long day with a local tuk-tuk driver named Sombo, starting with Angkor Wat which is unbelievable. I loved the tight passages and strange carvings, spending hours finding every view of the giant towers. It was intensely hot so it felt good to drive onwards through Tonle Om Gate and onto the much quieter temples of Angkor Thom & Bayon.
I found myself jogging between temples and ruins all day, constantly spotting new things to explore and loving the emptiness of the more remote ones. It would be impossible to list them all so here are my highlights. Ta Prohm has been swallowed by gigantic trees and was the setting of the Lara Croft movie. Very busy, but very cool. Pre Rup Temple was the most fun to climb, had an amazing view and loads of carved elephants. Neak Pean is small but probably the most unique being out on a lake, and Preah Khan was my favourite with it's huge pillars and arches. I had lots of breaks for food and ice cream along the route, and to befriend a playful monkey. As planned we ended at Phnom Bakheng for sunset, where I met Alexandria and a nice Canadian couple from the best spot on top of the temple.
This place felt like a fitting end to my two month trip. A final sunset in the sixth country which had taught me so much. In a few days I'd be back in Bangkok, flying on to Morocco for the final part of this adventure; running the Marrakech Marathon. For now there was everything and nothing on my mind at once, trying to appreciate all I had experienced and figuring out how much street food I could eat before I had to go home. In these moments it's surreal to think back on all the memories of such a short space of time. Often it's best to just sit back, enjoy the warm air and watch the sun slowly set.
Afterthoughts
It took time to process this trip fully. The tourism is often based on day trips or tours, with less emphasis on solo exploration of open mountains or countryside than I'm used to. I found myself missing my tent and the freedom to leave the crowds, but the real draw is the people and cultural diversity. There are 6,000 languages on Earth and 1,000 of those are in South East Asia. It's a paradise for curious exploration in it's own way, and I only realised after how much I gained from this time.
Singapore is an almost out of place melting pot of cultures. Malaysia is a bridge between tradition and modernity. Thailand is truly the friendliest place I've ever visited, and easily has the best beaches. Laos is proof that kindness prevails through poverty and war, with some of the most striking mountains. Vietnam is a tourists dream, from scenic rice paddies to remote islands and the worlds largest cave. And finally Cambodia is a nation which takes pride in their rich history at the cusp of civilisation.
There's nothing I would change about this two month trip. Someday I may return to explore Myanmar, Indonesia & Philippines, or to see places like to Koh Lanta in Thailand or Hà Giang in Vietnam. For now though, I couldn't be happier with all the memories I was lucky enough to make. I'm sure it's been clear that food was central to each place so I'll close with some photos of the foods I enjoyed the most, and the happy water (snake whiskey) which I'm still not sure if I liked.
Thank you for reading,
Brian
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