In October 2022, I was lucky enough to travel around the world and explore New Zealand. I spent 3 weeks on the north island and 4 weeks on the south, which I found to be a perfect timeframe for what I wanted. It would be impossible to include all the people, places and memories which made the time so special, but I wanted to summarise what I saw here, to immortalise it for my own memory.
New Zealand is amazingly well suited to backpacking. English speaking, friendly locals, cheap hostels (€10 to €15), lots of like minded people and endless things to do. Much of the tourism is centred around hikes and national parks (particularly to the south), meaning many of the best experiences cost nothing. Transport can take some figuring out and food is pricey, but I couldn't have enjoyed this hiker heaven any more. The landscapes blew my mind and everyday I felt drawn to explore until my legs hurt.
Introduction
New Zealand (Aoteroa) has two main islands. The north island (Te Ika-a-Māui) is 1.5 times larger than Ireland, has 4 Million people, and one third live in Auckland. The south island (Te Waipounamu) is 2 times larger than Ireland, only has 1.2 Million people, and one third live in Christchurch. The birds that once ruled still rustle in every forest, some large and flightless after evolving in a land with no mammals. Humans were their first real predator, with Māori's arriving just 800 years ago. Much of the nature feels unspoiled and at times empty, as if true exploration is still possible.
The country is a land of extremes; from the year round sun and pristine beaches of the Northland, to eight times more rain than Ireland in the southern Fjordland. The north island is covered in volcanoes, whose rich soil makes everything lush and green. The south island is dominated by the snow and glaciers of the Southern Alps, attracting adventurers and dictating wider weather patterns. The colliding tectonic plates which formed the islands continue to hang the threat of eruption, earthquake or tsunami.
There are endless ways to backpack the country and everyone's trip is different. Some drive it all by campervan, some move slower on public transport, and some walk top to bottom on the Te Araroa trail (which takes five months). Timeframes range from a few weeks up to a year, with longer trips needed to see the changing seasons or hike the ten great walks. No trip is better than any other and as long as you do it for you, that's all that really matters. But do start with the north island.
So my trip! In New Zealand's springtime all tourists begin with the headland above Auckland, known as the Northland, or Winterless North. From here they zig zag south, through the tourist hubs, meeting the same friends repeatedly and allowing the southern areas to warm up. I'll cover the places I visited as I followed this path, from my flight into Auckland to my flight out of Christchurch (as I've badly marked on a postcard below). Obviously there is more to see like the Coromandel up north or Dunedin down south. This is purely and unapologetically my trip, including many of the stories and facts I learned along the way.
The North Island
Cape Reinga
A lighthouse and ancient tree mark the northern tip of the country. This is where two oceans meet, leaving a distinct line between their differing colours. It's believed that Māori souls travel up the coast and leap from here after death, forming the line and making it the most spiritually significant place in the country. I met ten hikers starting the Te Araroa trail this day so I was in my element chatting with them.
On the way south we stopped at the famous 90 mile beach for sandboarding on the dunes. It's actually 55 miles long, wrongly measured due to a horses slower speed on sand. It's still the fourth longest beach in the world though. I was amazed by the Tuatua, which are millions of tiny shellfish living two inches below the wet sand. People grab a handful, wash the sand off in the ocean and eat them live. Apparently the freshest seafood you can find. The oldest kauri tree in New Zealand is near here also, named Tane Mahuta and over 4,000 years old.
The Bay of Islands
So much history here. Early colonisers built a trading town called Paihia, renowned for crime and known then as hell on earth. Missionaries setup a town across the bay called Russell, known as heaven on earth. Paihia is a short walk from the Waitangi Treaty Grounds where the first constitution was signed in 1840. Differences between the agreed Māori document and the legally binding English 'translation' are how New Zealand became a colony of the UK. Russell was the first capital and this treaty began the first of many wars for independence.
Paihia & Russell are now quaint towns, known as gateways to the Northland and Bay of Islands. I stayed in Paihia and enjoyed learning about the history, exploring the many islands and snorkelling uncomfortably with a big stingray. Best thing is the ferry to Russell and Flagstaff Hill, where a local chief named Hōne Heke cut down the tallest British Flag four separate times. Even when they used a concrete base and full time guards, he organised a riot in town to draw them away, dug out the base and used horses to pull it down. He's a local legend and a United Tribes flag flies on the pole now.
Auckland
A big, modern and busy city. I stayed with my cousin Andrew and his partner Olivia who lived in the centre. While they worked I went up the Sky Tower, toured the All Black Experience, went to the Wētā Workshop (Peter Jackson's second studio) and ran all over the city. A great walking tour described how Māori's followed migrating birds to first arrive here in Waka's (giant canoes), explained the symbols and statues of the city, how New Zealand became the first country where women could vote, the local food (or lack there of, it's really just meat pies..) and the current state of giant kauri trees; one third of which have a terminal disease.
In the evenings we explored more of the city, hiked up Mount Eden and had nice food and drinks. An early Diwali festival lined the streets with Indian stalls one of the days, and on two occasions I bumped into people I knew from home. To top off the visit I ran the Auckland Marathon, which ended up being the most horrendous weather of the entire trip but absolutely worth it. Overall a great stay and catch up that had me ready to leave the city and find some mountains!
Waitomo & Hamilton
Andrew, Olivia & I drove to Waitomo's famous glow worm caves. In thick wetsuits, you sit in inflatable tubes and float through a jet black cave, staring up at the glowing dots that look like distant stars. Tiny, invisible strings hang down to catch bugs who think their flying to the night sky. As the worms eat they emit excess energy as light to continue the cycle. It's an incredible experience when you turn off the headtorches and float past the sprawling galaxies.
That evening I was dropped in Hamilton to continue alone. Wasn't much to the town, but they did have a huge botanical garden. Sections were themed on places like Egypt and India, or trippy concepts like modernist or surrealist; with robotic moving trees and giant elements like those in Alice in Wonderland. Very well done and took ages to explore it all. Random fact: Hamilton is the antipode (exact opposite side of the world) to Córdoba in Spain.
Hobbiton
A recent rewatching of the trilogy had me pretty excited for this. The whole area has the strangest, most bumpy farmland I've ever seen. A small field could have thirty steep hills, with water tanks on some to flow by gravity, or others carved through for roads. It's so clear why Peter Jackson chose this as a home for the sneaky little hobbitses.
Exploring the Shire was brilliant. Perfect weather and I loved the little touches like signs on notice boards, or Bilbo's pipe outside Bag End. The tour guide shows you the big doors used when filming hobbits, and tiny doors for filming Gandalf to make him look bigger. Afterwards everyone gets a drink in the pub, which was rebuilt after burning it down for a movie. Then my tour included the festive lunch which I would highly recommend.
Rotorua
This outdoorsy town is dominated by geothermal emissions. Small parks centre around the smoking, and often bubbling pits where steam is escaping from deep volcanic activity. The naturally warm water is used to make foot baths, swimming pools and luxury spas. Some pools are literally boiling with fences and signs warning against entry. I never got used to the smell of sulphur and was happier to explore outside the town when possible!
My favourite things were the lake walk and the giant redwoods of Whakarewarewa Forest. Much younger than those in California, but definitely the biggest trees I'd ever seen. The longest hike summitted a mountain with nice views of the smoking town and wider area. Unfortunately I wasn't able to kayak the Kaituna river due to high levels that lasted weeks. This was the number one thing on my list, and now the first stop if I return.
Taupō
Lake Taupō is New Zealand's largest lake and gets it's name from the ancient collapsed volcano which formed its crater. The town on the lake edge was my favourite place on the north island. Huka Falls and the Aratiatia Rapids were an obvious first stop as a kayaker. The river walk to them is beautiful, and it's amazing to see the Aratiatia Dam turn an empty river bed into raging rapids in minutes. Some other nice walks were Mount Tauhara, the Opepe Circuit, the Tookanu Thermal Park and Craters of the Moon.
Silver ferns line many of these walks, the bottoms of which glow brightly under moonlight. Ancient Māori's would lay them upside-down on forest trails to guide their way home, becoming a uniting symbol for the country. Taupō itself is great, very outdoorsy and happens to have the World's Coolest McDonald's, with seating in an actual plane. The hostel was particularly nice also, and is where I met Corinna, Travis & McRae who I'd meet repeatedly.
Taupō Tandem Skydiving
I hate heights, so this made me pretty nervous. A hummer limo collects you, in which I met Max who I'd both jump alongside and travel onwards with after. The weather was unreal and the staff are experts at making it light-hearted and fun. It's only €70 to jump, and for the same again I had the "Stephen Spielberg of the sky" getting photos and videos on the way down (absolutely worth it).
The plane is tiny, with a flimsy plastic sheet instead of a door. The views are so cool on the way up and the instruction when you reach altitude is almost too easy. The fall is like a simulation, as if you're floating because the ground doesn't seem to get closer. I was surprisingly calm, more scared when the parachute came out and happy to finally reach the ground. Amazing experience in a perfect place. Watch the video here!
Tongariro Alpine Crossing
The north island's most famous hike, and one of the top ten one day hikes in the world. It was too early in the season for shuttle buses so the logistics were awkward, but once you get there it's great. You pass Mount Doom and other active volcanoes, the most recent of which erupted in the 1980's. Signs at the start warn of what to do if you feel a tremor and the landscape looks newly formed in places.
I had a chilly but beautiful day for this. The hike feels remote and Alpine, particularly as you walk through the crater of an ancient volcano. On climbs the dark volcanic sand slides down with every step, filling my shoes and reminding me of Kilimanjaro. Bright red craters and weirdly colourful lakes look surreal, and the views change in a beautiful way as you cross the range. Definitely shouldn't be missed.
New Plymouth & Mount Taranaki
Mount Taranaki is a huge volcano that doesn't seem real (google it!). A round snowy peak, surrounded by a perfect circle of trees from its national park, and a round coastline beyond that. In one long day I made a dodgy summit bid through snow and crazy winds, then hiked the normally two day Poukai Circuit around the mountain. Visibility wasn't on my side, particularly at the famous reflective lake, but what a day nonetheless!
New Plymouth is a nice town, especially Pukehura Park with its cool trees and fountains. I liked the beach walk, all the way from the giant wind wand to the towns best sunset spot: Paritutu Rock. This is a 156m tall rock that sits on the coast line, with chains and carvings to let you climb up. The view of Mount Taranaki from the top shouldn't be missed, and the hostel was particularly fun too.
Napier
This coastal town made a hilariously bad first impression, but once the sun came out that changed. I cycled all the coastline, got lunch at a nice pub, then visited the oldest winery in New Zealand. Walking up to the Centennial Waterfalls and Bluff Hill was well worth it, and the tour of Napier Prison was super interesting. Napier was out of the way to get to and badly needs a hostel upgrade, but it turned out to be a great stop. It's also where I met Marion who would later travel the south island with me.
Wellington
The world's windiest city, and it showed. I'm genuinely surprised they're able to have an airport. I loved the Māori history, full scale whale heart and giant war exhibitions of the Te Papa Museum. Also the original Wētā Workshop (Peter Jackson's actual studio) was a fun tour, and in escaping the elements I had lots of nice food around here.
The wind was consistently bad, but nonetheless I took the cable car to the botanical gardens, walked up Mount Victoria, and in one long cycle covered the entire southern coastline to the seal colony in Red Rocks Reserve. Watching out for all the penguin crossings on route. Finally I waved goodbye to the north island and boarded the interislander ferry to cross the Cook Strait.
The South Island
Picton
On a clear day the ferry is amazing. You dock in the small town of Picton, where most people board a bus for Nelson. I'm so glad I stayed here first though. One of the nicest hostels so far had an outdoor hot tub and free bikes for guests. I cycled a mountain bike track to the tip of a peninsula where I sat and watched the ferries pass by. Nice restaurants, parks and walks made this a worthwhile stop.
Nelson & Murchison
A small hill just outside Nelson marks the geographical centre of New Zealand. From the top you can see the neighbouring mountains and long beaches the area is known for. This would be the last time I'd see Corinna so we made time for hikes, wandering and mini golf before she left. There was lots to explore around the town and beaches, including the biggest swing I'd ever seen.
I met up with my friend Andrew who moved here a few years ago. He and his girlfriend Christina were nice enough to have me over for a barbeque with their friends. They also brought me for a paddle down their local run; the Granity Section of the Buller River (III+). Loads of big, bouncy rapids through the mountains of Murchison National Park. Two laps of the biggest rapid topped off an unreal day, and if it weren't for the swarms of sand-flies in the carpark this could have been paradise!
Abel Tasman National Park
This is New Zealand's smallest national park, covering 60km of coastline and waters, but very little of the inaccessible mountains behind. The name comes from the Dutch explorer who first saw New Zealand in 1642, although he never docked here due to locals fighting him off. Boat tours run every day, particularly to see split apple rock which was supposedly ripped in two by feuding God's. The waters are protected and thriving too, so snorkelling and kayaking are popular.
The Abel Tasman track is one of New Zealand's ten great walks, usually done by getting a boat to one end and walking back. I hiked half of this, getting to see the huts and incredible beaches of this exceptionally isolated place. Cool bridges and timing the tides for crossings make it a unique trip. I also drove back out with Andrew & Christina one night for a jazz gig in Marahau, the small hippie town just within the park.
Kaikoura
Kaikoura is a coastal town with a bigger seal population than human. The hoards of seals are cool to see, even if they're very stinky. If you get lost on the peninsula loop like I did then things can get pretty spicy, but a great walk none the less. We had some fun evenings in the town too.
The whale watching tour is world famous and on a ridiculously lucky day we saw three sperm whales, a family of orca's and a pack of 200 dolphins. The boat captain was more excited than anyone, particularly for the orca's. I would highly recommend the hike up Mount Fyffe to see the peninsula from above and the strange patterns on surrounding hills.
West Coast Region
Some of New Zealand's most beautiful areas are wedged between the Southern Alps and this rugged western coastline. Marion & I drove it all, crossing the mountains at Lewis Pass with a rainy walk of the Lewis Tops Track, followed by nicer coastal weather on the Truman Track and Pancake Rocks of Punakaiki. After a night on the shipwreck shores of Greymouth (and a particularly eclectic hostel), we headed south to Hokitika Gorge which I loved. Then walked around Lake Kaniere, over the West Coast Treetop Walk and enjoyed free popcorn and soup at our next hostel in Franz Josef.
Franz Josef Glacier has receded a lot, but the short walks around it like Sentinel Rock & Peter's Pool were beautiful. Fox Glacier was similar, and this brought us to the highlight for me; crossing back over the Alps at Haast Pass. We walked to huge waterfalls at Fantail Falls, Thunder Creek Falls & Roaring Billy Falls. Then a gorge walk to the aptly named Blue Pool which is probably the most inviting swim spot I've ever seen. The walks are lined with huge trees which continue to amaze me, and the views from the road are like postcards.
Wānaka
At the foot of the Southern Alps, and on the edge of Mount Aspiring National Park is a small adventure oasis named Wānaka. I loved everything about this town, even the highly overrated but admittedly photogenic Wānaka Tree. The lake makes for amazing sunrises and I enjoyed the hike up Rocky Mountain to overlook the area. Even just exploring the town and its many playgrounds was time I'll never forget.
I trail ran the normally two day Liverpool Hut Track which was amazing. The drive was an adventure in itself, and the hut is as remote as anywhere can be these days. Perched on a precarious cliff edge with a steep 1,000m scramble to reach it. A long but worthwhile trail run, after which I rewarded myself by getting lost in the Wānaka Maze at Puzzling World. One of the most stressful experiences of my life!
Roy's Peak & Isthmus Peak
In my opinion, these two hikes near Wānaka are the best in the country. Roy's Peak has a strict season due to lambing that we were luckily days within. The steep path rises from green valleys, up to the famous ridge that people sprint across to reveal the islands and shores of Lake Wānaka. You really need to climb high to appreciate the beauty of this area.
On a far warmer day we hiked up Isthmus Peak. This sits between remarkably blue lakes in a way that's hard to see until the summit. Photos do no justice to the full panorama of mountains, and particularly the snowy Southern Alps whose cold air you can feel. This mountain gave me an urge to run, igniting a childish spark that wants to explore. After a long day in the sun we went straight to a lake to swim and cool off.
Queenstown
If I ever move to New Zealand it will be here. I fell in love with the beach, the coastal walk, and the frisbee golf course that some locals were nice enough to take us around. Everyone tells you about Fergburger, and it truly is the best burger I've ever had. I have great memories of ice creams by the lake, dinners with friends, staring up at a rare blood moon and coming dead last in a pub quiz after too many beers. The sunset from the beach is also preposterously nice.
I did a tough trail run up Ben Lomond which overlooks the town and the swirling paragliders below. Then spent ages on the mountain luge; which is a steep downhill karting track with a chair lift back up for a second (or sixth) lap. Plus an amazing half day in the Kiwi Park which houses the strange birds that originally populated the islands. It's a great place to learn about the kiwis tiny wings, gigantic eggs (20% of their body weight), and the issues they face with invasive possums. In a pitch black room I got to see the nocturnal kiwis roaming and drilling for food with their long beaks. Once my night vision kicked in and I stopped bumping into everyone that is.
Otago Region
Exploring around Queesntown, we pushed the rental car to it's absolute limit to reach The Remarkables Ski Area. A snowier hike than planned brought us to Lake Alta, which Lord of the Rings fans will know as the entrance to the Mines of Moria. Another day we went canyoning through a tight gorge in the Gibbston Valley, then climbed the Shirt Tail Track to a particularly cool lake viewpoint.
Finally the thing I dreaded most since booking my flight to New Zealand; a bungy jump! AJ Hackett first commercialised the 'sport' when he opened the Kawarau Bridge Bungy in 1986. I knew I had to do this original one, even though it terrified me. After several weigh-ins and a questionable towel with velcro strapped around my legs, I was stood on the edge. Looking back I almost can't believe I did it. I opted for the water 'touch' which was more of a concussive slap. The adrenaline lasted days and although I'll probably never do one again, I'm so glad I did. Watch that video here!
Te Anau & Manapouri
Lake Te Anau is the south island's largest lake. The small town of Te Anau on its banks is known as the gateway to Fjordland, well located for all the nearby hikes. We based ourselves here, driving south to Manapouri for the lakeside cliff walk, east to see the Takitimu Mountains and north for the Knobs Flat Waterfall walk.
We had beautiful weather for exploring the sights and food of Te Anau itself, even taking my first rest day! This was a great base for our few days in Fjordland, seeing huge changes instantly when you drive deeper. Also seeing the Kea's; New Zealand's large parrots who try their hardest to steal food, even through a car!
Fjordland National Park
New Zealand's largest national park is centred around the 14 fjords of Southland. These fjords formed through repeated freezing and melting of glaciers, carving deep valleys that extend to the sea. The one road that passes through them is out of this world and we stopped at all the main hikes on route.
Lake Howden & Lake Gunn were short but unique, and I loved Key Summit which got high enough to overlook the whole area. The best hike was definitely to Lake Marian, which is hidden deep in the mountains. Fog rolls slowly over snowy peaks that look like Everest, and there's a strange serenity in the air.
Milford Sound
At the end of the Fjordland road, is a long tunnel that reveals the 8th wonder of the world. Milford Sound is the largest of the fjords, full of huge cliffs and islands. It rains almost every day, totalling 8,000mm per year (Ireland averages 1,000mm per year!). This forms huge waterfalls and a rolling fog that makes the stillness seem eerie. You can't feel them, but sensors monitor at least ten minor earthquakes per day. This place is truly wild.
The boat trip around Milford Sound was unbelievable. A constant layer of rain and mineral runoff leaves the sea water extra dark. This and the perfectly flat side walls make whales think it's deeper than it is, allowing you to find them alongside the dolphins, seals and penguins. After going to the ocean and back we docked at a natural aquarium, down to a ten meter deep glass room where you watch fish swim amongst rare black coral (which is bright white when alive). This is one of the top attractions of the whole country and not something to miss.
Mueller Hut & Mount Ollivier
After Milford Sound we began making our way back north. We stayed again in Queenstown and Wānaka, before taking the road up the east side of the Alps. The town of Twizel was a particularly beautiful stay by the lake, after which we approached Aoraki.
Aoraki (Mount Cook) is the highest peak in New Zealand. At it's base is a small town of the same name, full of climbers and skiiers. Here we rented rigid boots and crampons for a stay in one of the countries best huts. The hike up was steep and slow, through cold alpine air. It was my first time using crampons and I was amazed by the distant cracks of ice and glaciers. Huts are central to hiking in New Zealand, with over 950 maintained by the government. This one is on a snowy plateau, staffed by a volunteer who had so many cool stories on that cosy night.
This current hut was opened in 2003 by Sir Edmund Hillary. In 1939, a twenty year old Hillary had his first experience of mountaineering when he climbed Mount Ollivier, the mountain just behind Mueller Hut. This grew to a passion which saw him conquer Mount Everest with Tenzing Norgay only 14 years later. The next morning Marion & I scrambled up through the dense fog to stand on the same summit. Possibly fitting that this be my first experience of alpine mountaineering. After descending we spent an extra day in Aoraki town, and in particular at the Hillary museum.
Lake Tekapo
Lake Tekapo is a photographers dream, particularly the Church of the Good Shepherd. The water is bright turquoise due to a fine rock sand carried down from glaciers, and the area is a dark sky reserve which exposes the milky way. I loved the walk up to the observatory on Mount John, even though we had to hitchhike down due to a freak rain shower. It's a stunning place that was well worth staying. I loved all the colour from the purple lupins.
Christchurch
If Auckland was Dublin, then Christchurch is Galway. I loved the street art, especially of Antarctica, and walking along the Avon river to the botanical garden. I took the gondola up Mount Cavendish to see the city from above, and to look at the distant Alps. I met my friend Sarah one night too, having drinks on New Regent Street and getting to see why she moved here.
My final days were spent with good food and great people. An afternoon in the botanical garden where I was still amazed by the size of the trees. Slowly enjoying once more the river walk, farmers market and the biggest playground I'd ever seen. It's bittersweet, and almost melancholic that this perfect trip had to end with goodbyes. So much life had been lived in just seven weeks, having traded all apprehension for an experience I wouldn't yet fully understand. Simple things often transport me back, like hearing Six60 on the radio and suddenly I'm driving the west coast again. With every spark of childlike passion that my adventures ignite, I'm reminded of this time when it all burned so naturally. Relishing in these memories is what made it so difficult to leave, but it's also what eased my nerves for the next parts of this adventure; climbing Mount Kosciuszko in Australia & Backpacking South East Asia.
Thank you so much for reading,
Brian
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