The Seven Sisters are the main peaks of the Derryveagh Mountain Range in Donegal. They span from Muckish Mountain (666m) to Donegal's highest peak; Errigal (751m). It's a long but popular hike to summit all seven in a day, crossing rough terrain with almost no road access. Strong winds and unpredictable weather add to the difficulty at nearly all times of year.
The Seven Sisters Skyline is a 55km ultramarathon that completes the route twice, running out and back from the town of Dunlewey on the Errigal side. It has 4,600m of elevation gain, meaning it's steep enough to classify as Skyrunning rather than Trail Running. This is often regarded as Ireland's most difficult mountain running event.
I ran this race with friends in September 2023. Jamie, Anna & Janelle ran the full route, and Jack & Mária ran the half (Muckish to Errigal). Along with Jack's girlfriend Hannah, the six of us booked a house nearby to make a long weekend out of it. We arrived late on Friday for registration and prepped our bags at the house. We had an early breakfast on Saturday, to make the 6:30am start time.
It was calm and clear that morning, with the moon lighting up a silhouette of Errigal above. I had the 14hr cut-off on my mind already, as well as a storm that was due to hit later in the day. I hoped I'd be back on that final peak before the worst of the wind arrived. We took some photos and moved to the start line, then quickly we were off.
Everyone started as a tight pack, running around a lake and through forest trails, only dispersing as the climb began. There were mucky tracks followed by nicer stone sections, which became easier to run on as the sun rose. Once we were high on the second rocky peak I could just about see Muckish in the distance. I felt like everyone around me was energetic with the morning sun, and so far conditions were perfect.
I told myself the race only begins when we turn at the other side of Muckish. The way there was long, with boggy sections to a nice lake, then a beautiful ridgeline, and a crazy steep descent that was too slippy to enjoy. I ate and drank loads along the way, and was so glad to have my knee supports and hiking poles. The sixth peak had us jumping up boggy ledges, and finally it was Errigal that looked an eternity away. I was delighted as I ran the long, curving descent to the aid station at the base of Muckish, arriving shortly after 5 hours.
I refilled my water and grabbed some jellies here for a tough climb on a steep ridge. I was using my hands the whole way up until it levelled off, then a very windy run to the summit of Muckish. We descended the famous Miner's Path on the other side where I loved seeing the old mining equipment. We got shelter from the wind as we got lower too, but this part was just cruel. At the bottom we reached the road where Jack & Mária's race had begun, and from there turned to go straight back up. That climb was awful, and the summit was even windier. I had to be careful descending a different ridge to reach the same aid station after 7 hours.
Muckish had been a much tougher section than I expected. Every bit of it felt relentless and made Errigal look even farther away. I took a few minutes back at the aid station to rest my knees, then loaded up on chocolate and got going. There was a photographer here who got nice photos as we headed for home. I drank loads of water as I mentally prepared for the steepest of the hills that were coming.
The first few hours of the return were almost enjoyable. There's something nice about seeing a peak for the last time, and I was able to zone out by chatting with people around me. The big issue was the steadily growing wind which was well above 50km/hr as I ran the central ridge. On exposed sections I could barely stand, and I stared at Errigal wondering if we'd even be allowed up there. Hours later I was waving goodbye to the lake and boggy sections as I climbed the second last peak. On the descent I saw the point where we turn for Errigal, and a marshall was still allowing us to do so. I found out after that they closed that option only ten minutes later.
I was 10 hours into the race when I took that turn, and got very emotional to know I could finish the full route. I ran the sweeping trail to the other side of Errigal, for a scramble up the back, after which we'd descend the normal route on the front. It was genuinely dodgy, with gusts that could easily blow you off the cliffs, but still not the worst conditions I've seen up there. I passed some very nervous people as I followed my system of running between gusts, and hunkering down for the bad ones. Approaching the top I passed a mountain goat and climbed through the iconic rock arch.
The actual peak was very intense. A few people were sheltered before it, afraid to cross the summit ridge. The gusts didn't let up so I walked on a small ledge below, with my hands and body pressed to the main path to brace the wind. This was the scariest part of the day, but I crossed it as safely as I could, overjoyed to look at Muckish far in the distance for the last time. As I took a video, my sunglasses flew off down a cliff never to be seen again. That was my cue to leave and I made a quick descent down the loose shale.
As I slid my way down the mountain, a thick rain cloud formed above. I went as fast as I could through the forest and around the lake to hopefully outrun it, but no luck. I got one biblical dumping of rain that soaked the trail and my socks, but it didn't last long. The wind helped dry me off as I ran the last road section toward the village and saw the finish line. The guys were there to cheer me on as I ran through.
11hrs 48mins 18s
I absolutely loved this event, wearing the medal and race top with pride. The route was as long and difficult as I expected, and beating the wind to the summit of Errigal felt like a weight off my shoulders. My knees had a few worrying moments, but luckily made it through. We didn't hang around long as another rain shower was just beginning. Instead I grabbed some of the free food and beers, and we made our way back to the house.
The weather wasn't kind for the rest of our Donegal holiday, but we didn't mind. We still fit in some sightseeing, swims and plenty of celebrating. My body held up great all things considered. I was definitely tired, but my muscles felt flexible and healthy. I appreciated the few days of rest afterwards, with it all feeling well earned. All in all, this was one of the most fun and memorable experiences of the year for me, almost entirely thanks to the great people I got to share it with.
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